How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step DIY suspension guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and post-repair alignment checks
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step DIY suspension guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and post-repair alignment checks


đź”§ Grand Cherokee - Shock Absorber Replacement
On your Grand Cherokee, the front “shocks” are part of a complete front strut assembly, and the rear uses a separate rear shock absorber. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces tire cupping.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours (all four)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
- 🛑 If you are not installing complete front strut assemblies, a coil spring compressor is required—compressed springs store dangerous energy.
- 🛑 Work on a cool vehicle; suspension bolts can be tight and slip-prone.
- 🛑 If equipped with electronic damping connectors on the struts/shocks, unplug connectors carefully—do not pull on wiring.
- 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required unless you’ll be unplugging multiple chassis connectors and want extra safety.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 22mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 18mm combination wrench
- 21mm combination wrench
- Pry bar
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip tool
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assembly - Replace in pairs (Left + Right) - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorber - Replace in pairs (Left + Right) - Qty: 2
- Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
- Rear shock mounting hardware - Qty: 1 kit
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the wheels that stay on the ground using wheel chocks.
- Crack the lug nuts loose with a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- If your shocks/struts have an electrical connector, locate it now so you don’t stretch the harness later.
- Tip: Do one corner at a time.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the correct jacking point.
- Set the vehicle securely onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove lug nuts with a 22mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Reinstall later: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.
Step 2: Front strut removal (one side)
- Spray lower fasteners with penetrating oil.
- Disconnect any strut electrical connector (if equipped) using needle-nose pliers for any clip locks.
- Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
- Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using an 18mm socket and 18mm combination wrench (hold the stud if it spins). Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
- Mark the strut-to-knuckle position with a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
- Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 21mm socket and 21mm combination wrench.
- Under the hood, remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well; use a pry bar gently if needed.
Step 3: Front strut installation (one side)
- Position the new strut assembly into the tower and hand-start the upper nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Align the strut to the knuckle and install the two lower bolts using a 21mm socket and 21mm combination wrench.
- Tighten upper mount nuts using a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
- Tighten strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
- Reattach brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket: Torque to 14 Nm (10 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect the electrical connector (if equipped) until it clicks.
Step 4: Repeat Step 2–3 for the other front side
- Use the same socket sizes and match routing of hoses/wiring exactly as before.
- Tip: Compare new vs old before installing.
Step 5: Rear shock removal (one side)
- Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the lower shock bolt using an 18mm socket and 18mm combination wrench.
- Access the upper shock mount (inside the rear wheel well/body area as equipped) and remove the upper fastener using a 15mm socket.
- Remove the rear shock from the vehicle.
Step 6: Rear shock installation (one side)
- Install the new shock and hand-start the upper fastener using a 15mm socket.
- Align the lower mount by raising/lowering the control arm with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Install the lower bolt using an 18mm socket and 18mm combination wrench.
- Tighten upper mount fastener using a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs).
- Tighten lower bolt using a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 136 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Repeat Step 5–6 for the other rear side
- Make sure both rear shocks are installed before final wheel torque.
Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle
- Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 22mm socket.
- Lower to the ground with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Final-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.
âś… After Repair
- Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
- Recheck lug nut torque with a 1/2" drive torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (front strut removal can change alignment).
- If you have warning lights after reconnecting a suspension connector, re-check the connector seating and wiring routing.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $500-$1,600 (parts only)
You Save: $700-$800 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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