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2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee
SRT8 - V8 6.4L
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How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
22mm
22mm
Socket
or (7/8")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Step-by-step DIY suspension guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and post-repair alignment checks

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Step-by-step DIY suspension guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and post-repair alignment checks

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đź”§ Grand Cherokee - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Grand Cherokee, the front “shocks” are part of a complete front strut assembly, and the rear uses a separate rear shock absorber. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces tire cupping.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours (all four)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
  • 🛑 If you are not installing complete front strut assemblies, a coil spring compressor is required—compressed springs store dangerous energy.
  • 🛑 Work on a cool vehicle; suspension bolts can be tight and slip-prone.
  • 🛑 If equipped with electronic damping connectors on the struts/shocks, unplug connectors carefully—do not pull on wiring.
  • 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required unless you’ll be unplugging multiple chassis connectors and want extra safety.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 22mm socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range)
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 18mm combination wrench
  • 21mm combination wrench
  • Pry bar
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assembly - Replace in pairs (Left + Right) - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorber - Replace in pairs (Left + Right) - Qty: 2
  • Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
  • Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
  • Rear shock mounting hardware - Qty: 1 kit

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the wheels that stay on the ground using wheel chocks.
  • Crack the lug nuts loose with a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • If your shocks/struts have an electrical connector, locate it now so you don’t stretch the harness later.
  • Tip: Do one corner at a time.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the correct jacking point.
  • Set the vehicle securely onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove lug nuts with a 22mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Reinstall later: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

Step 2: Front strut removal (one side)

  • Spray lower fasteners with penetrating oil.
  • Disconnect any strut electrical connector (if equipped) using needle-nose pliers for any clip locks.
  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
  • Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using an 18mm socket and 18mm combination wrench (hold the stud if it spins). Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
  • Mark the strut-to-knuckle position with a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
  • Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
  • Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 21mm socket and 21mm combination wrench.
  • Under the hood, remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
  • Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well; use a pry bar gently if needed.

Step 3: Front strut installation (one side)

  • Position the new strut assembly into the tower and hand-start the upper nuts using a 13mm socket.
  • Align the strut to the knuckle and install the two lower bolts using a 21mm socket and 21mm combination wrench.
  • Tighten upper mount nuts using a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
  • Tighten strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
  • Reattach brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket: Torque to 14 Nm (10 ft-lbs).
  • Reconnect the electrical connector (if equipped) until it clicks.

Step 4: Repeat Step 2–3 for the other front side

  • Use the same socket sizes and match routing of hoses/wiring exactly as before.
  • Tip: Compare new vs old before installing.

Step 5: Rear shock removal (one side)

  • Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using an 18mm socket and 18mm combination wrench.
  • Access the upper shock mount (inside the rear wheel well/body area as equipped) and remove the upper fastener using a 15mm socket.
  • Remove the rear shock from the vehicle.

Step 6: Rear shock installation (one side)

  • Install the new shock and hand-start the upper fastener using a 15mm socket.
  • Align the lower mount by raising/lowering the control arm with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Install the lower bolt using an 18mm socket and 18mm combination wrench.
  • Tighten upper mount fastener using a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs).
  • Tighten lower bolt using a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 136 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Repeat Step 5–6 for the other rear side

  • Make sure both rear shocks are installed before final wheel torque.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 22mm socket.
  • Lower to the ground with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Final-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

âś… After Repair

  • Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • Recheck lug nut torque with a 1/2" drive torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (front strut removal can change alignment).
  • If you have warning lights after reconnecting a suspension connector, re-check the connector seating and wiring routing.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $500-$1,600 (parts only)

You Save: $700-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.


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