🔧 Flex - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Flex, the front “shocks” are built into the front strut assemblies, and the rear uses separate rear shock absorbers. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

Assumption: stock suspension; torque values can vary—use Ford service specs for your exact build.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Front struts contain a coil spring (stored energy). If you disassemble a strut, use a spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring) and keep hands/face out of the spring’s path.
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.
• ⚠️ After replacement, you should get a 4-wheel alignment to prevent pulling and tire wear.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket (19mm)
• Socket set 8mm-24mm
• Wrench set 8mm-24mm
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2", 20-250 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (3/8", 10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Pry bar (18")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Punch (6mm-10mm)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim removal tool set
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader tool (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mounts/bearings - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mounts - If worn/cracked - Qty: 2
• New self-locking nuts/bolts for strut-to-knuckle and shock mounts - As needed - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the opposite end you’re lifting.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket to crack the lug nuts loose 1/2 turn before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on lower strut bolts (front) and lower shock bolts (rear) and let it soak while you set up.
• If you’re replacing front struts and reusing springs, set your spring compressor nearby and read its instructions first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and shake the car gently to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the front wheels using a 19mm lug nut socket.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets and links at the front strut

• Use a socket set 8mm-24mm to remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut body (do not open the brake system).
• If equipped, disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut using a wrench set 8mm-24mm.
• Tip: Hold the link stud with a wrench if it spins.

Step 3: Mark camber position (helps alignment get close)

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the strut-to-knuckle bolts/washers relative to the knuckle.
• This does not replace a professional alignment, but it helps you drive safely to the shop.

Step 4: Remove the strut from the steering knuckle

• Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
• Use a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set 8mm-24mm to remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• If the knuckle clamps tightly to the strut, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) to slightly open the clamp.
• Tap bolts out with a hammer (2 lb) and punch (6mm-10mm) if needed.
• Torque to factory specification (Ford service info) when reinstalling these bolts.

Step 5: Remove the front strut assembly from the body

• Open the hood.
• Use a socket set 8mm-24mm to remove the upper strut mount nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut, then pull the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
• Torque to factory specification (Ford service info) for the upper mount nuts during installation.

Step 6: If reusing the spring, transfer parts (skip if using complete quick-struts)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose at the mount.
• Use a socket set 8mm-24mm to remove the center top nut and transfer the mount/bearing and isolators to the new strut.
• Slowly release the spring compressor, making sure the spring ends seat correctly in the rubber pads.
• Tip: If anything looks crooked, stop and reseat.

Step 7: Install the new front strut

• Position the strut into the strut tower and hand-start the upper nuts using a socket set 8mm-24mm.
• Guide the strut into the knuckle, align your paint marks, and install the lower bolts using a socket set 8mm-24mm.
• Reconnect sway bar end link and all brackets using a wrench set 8mm-24mm.
• Final-tighten fasteners using a torque wrench (1/2").
• Torque to factory specification (Ford service info) for all suspension fasteners.

Step 8: Repeat front on the other side

• Replace the other front strut the same way so handling stays balanced.

Step 9: Lift and secure the rear

• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the rear wheels using a 19mm lug nut socket.

Step 10: Access the upper rear shock mount

• In the cargo area, remove the necessary interior trim to reach the shock upper mount using a trim removal tool set and needle-nose pliers.
• Use a socket set 8mm-24mm to loosen (but not fully remove) the upper mount nuts.

Step 11: Remove the rear shock

• Support the rear suspension arm slightly with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set 8mm-24mm to remove the lower shock bolt.
• Now fully remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set 8mm-24mm and pull the shock out.
• Torque to factory specification (Ford service info) when reinstalling upper and lower shock fasteners.

Step 12: Install the new rear shock

• Install the new shock in place and hand-start the upper nuts using a socket set 8mm-24mm.
• Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a socket set 8mm-24mm.
• Snug everything, then final-torque using a torque wrench (1/2").
• Torque to factory specification (Ford service info) for all shock fasteners.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and set the vehicle on the ground

• Reinstall wheels using a 19mm lug nut socket.
• Lower the vehicle carefully using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to factory specification (Ford service info).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and turn the steering lock-to-lock while stopped. Listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Road test at low speed first. Recheck for noises over bumps.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (especially after front struts).
• After 50-100 miles, recheck visible fasteners and look for anything shifting or leaking.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$1,300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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