🔧 Civic - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Civic, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses strut assemblies (a strut is a shock that also supports the spring). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing or tire cupping.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (rear only: 1.5-3 hrs, front struts: 2.5-5 hrs)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ If doing front struts: the coil spring is stored energy and can injure you if released suddenly.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wire from being stretched or twisted while parts are loose.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, you should get a 4-wheel alignment.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (3/8", 10–100 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Socket set (8mm–22mm)
• Wrench set (10mm–19mm)
• Phillips screwdriver
• Trim clip remover
• Pry bar (12–18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mounts (if worn/cracked) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut assemblies (complete “quick struts”) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links (if loose/noisy) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Replacement self-locking nuts/bolts for suspension (as needed) - Qty: 1 kit

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, put the transmission in Reverse, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
• 🔩 Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
• 🧴 Spray penetrating oil on lower shock/strut bolts and sway bar link nuts and let it soak 10–15 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front or rear at the proper jack point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the pinch welds/subframe and lower the car onto them.
• Remove wheels using a 19mm socket and ratchet (1/2").

Step 2: Rear shocks - access the upper shock nuts

• Open the trunk.
• Use a trim clip remover and Phillips screwdriver to remove trunk side trim panels enough to expose the rear shock top mounts.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position if you want a reference for reassembly.

Step 3: Rear shocks - remove the lower shock bolt

• Support the rear suspension arm lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop when the shock is removed.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar (1/2") to remove the lower shock bolt/nut at the rear knuckle/suspension arm.

Step 4: Rear shocks - remove the upper nuts and take the shock out

• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet (3/8") to remove the two upper shock mount nuts in the trunk.
• Remove the shock assembly from the wheel well by hand; use a pry bar (12–18") gently if it’s stuck.

Step 5: Rear shocks - install the new shock and torque fasteners

• Position the new shock into the upper mount holes and start the upper nuts by hand.
• Install the lower bolt/nut using a 17mm socket and ratchet (1/2").
• With the suspension supported at normal-ish ride height (use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the arm), torque fasteners:
• Torque the rear upper shock mount nuts to 29 Nm (22 ft-lbs) using a 14mm socket and torque wrench (3/8", 10–100 ft-lbs range).
• Torque the rear lower shock bolt to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) using a 17mm socket and torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range).

Step 6: Front struts - disconnect brackets and sway bar end link

• Turn the steering to give yourself room (or remove the wheel for best access).
• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
• Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut using a 17mm wrench and socket set (8mm–22mm) (use the appropriate hex/holding method from your tool set to keep the stud from spinning).
• Torque on install: 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Front struts - remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle area with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop and pull on the axle/brake hose.
• Use a 19mm socket, breaker bar (1/2"), and wrench set (10mm–19mm) to remove the two large bolts/nuts that clamp the strut to the knuckle.
• Tip: mark bolt position before removal.

Step 8: Front struts - remove the strut assembly from the car

• Open the hood.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet (3/8") to remove the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Remove the strut assembly out through the wheel well by hand.

Step 9: Front struts - swap spring (skip if using complete quick struts)

• If you bought complete front strut assemblies, skip to Step 10.
• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring; a spring compressor is a tool that safely squeezes the spring so the top nut can be removed.
• Use a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) to remove the center top nut while holding the strut shaft.
• Transfer mount/bearing/isolators as needed, then reassemble and slowly release the spring compressor evenly.

Step 10: Front struts - install and torque everything

• Position the strut into the tower and start the three upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
• Align the strut to the knuckle and install the two large bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet (1/2").
• Reconnect sway bar end link and brake hose/ABS brackets using a 17mm wrench and 10mm socket.
• Torque fasteners:
• Torque the front upper strut mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a 14mm socket and torque wrench (3/8", 10–100 ft-lbs range).
• Torque the front strut-to-knuckle bolts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) using a 19mm socket and torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range).
• Torque the front sway bar end link nut to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a 17mm socket and torque wrench (3/8", 10–100 ft-lbs range).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and set the car down

• Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque the wheel lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) using a 19mm socket and torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Bounce-test each corner by hand; it should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• 🛣️ Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps.
• 🧰 Recheck all visible fasteners after the test drive.
• 📏 If you replaced front struts, schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor, depends on front/rear and part quality)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only, rear shocks are usually cheaper than front quick struts)

You Save: $450-$700+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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