🔧 Camry - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Camry, the “shocks/struts” control bouncing and keep the tires planted. Replacing worn units restores ride comfort, braking stability, and tire wear. Fronts are struts (shock + spring assembly), rears are shocks.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours (all four)

Assumption: replacing front struts and rear shocks (complete set).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 If you reuse front springs, a coil spring compressor (specialty) is required; compressed springs store dangerous energy.
• 🛑 Keep hands/face out of the spring’s path while compressing; tighten both sides evenly.
• 🛑 Hybrid safety: stay clear of orange high-voltage cables; you do not need to disable the HV system for this suspension job.
• 🛑 Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose; support it.
• 🛑 Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lb range)
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Impact wrench (optional)
• Socket set 10mm–22mm (1/2-inch drive)
• Wrench set 10mm–22mm
• Allen key set 5mm–8mm
• Pry bar (18–24 inch)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Rubber mallet
• Bungee cord
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front struts or complete front strut assemblies - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mounts and bearings - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mounts - Qty: 2
• Rear bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Qty: 2
• Replacement self-locking nuts and bolts for strut/shock hardware - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• 🧰 Spray strut-to-knuckle and shock bolts with penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes.
• 🧰 Plan an alignment: any front strut replacement should be followed by a 4-wheel alignment.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jack point.
• Set the car down on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the pinch welds or factory stand points.
• Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets and sway bar link from the strut

• Remove ABS/brake hose brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm socket and hold the stud with an Allen key set 5mm–8mm if it spins.
• Tip: Support the link to avoid boot damage.

Step 3: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions.
• Support the knuckle with a bungee cord so the brake hose is not stretched.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• If the bolts are stuck, tap them out with a rubber mallet.

Step 4: Remove the front strut assembly

• Open the hood.
• Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Lift the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 5: Swap the strut (two options)

• Option A (recommended): Complete strut assembly
  • Move directly to Step 6 (no spring compressor needed).
• Option B: Reuse your spring and mount
  • Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring.
  • Tighten evenly until the spring is loose on the top mount.
  • Remove the center top nut using a 17mm socket while holding the strut shaft with an Allen key set 5mm–8mm (varies by strut).
  • Transfer spring, bearing, mount, bump stop, and boot to the new strut.
  • Reinstall the center top nut and then slowly release the spring compressor.
  • Tip: If anything looks cracked, replace it now.

Step 6: Reinstall the front strut assembly

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-start the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the strut with the knuckle and install the two lower bolts using a 19mm socket.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm socket.
• Reinstall ABS/brake hose brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Torque all fasteners to Toyota specifications for your Camry’s suspension.

Step 7: Lift and secure the rear

• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 8: Access the rear upper shock nuts

• Open the trunk.
• Remove side trunk trim panels with a flat trim tool to expose the shock mount area.
• Loosen (do not fully remove yet) the upper shock nuts using a 14mm socket.

Step 9: Remove the rear shock

• Support the rear suspension arm slightly with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lower shock bolt/nut using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket (varies by hardware).
• Remove the upper shock nuts fully using a 14mm socket.
• Pull the shock out.

Step 10: Install the new rear shock

• Transfer mount/bushings/boot as needed (or replace with new) using a 14mm socket.
• Install the shock and hand-start the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket.
• With the suspension supported at normal-ish height (use the floor jack under the arm), tighten hardware.
• Torque all fasteners to Toyota specifications for your Camry’s suspension.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lb) using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lb range).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps.
• 🧪 Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.
• 🧪 Get a 4-wheel alignment (front strut work changes alignment).
• 🧪 If the steering wheel is off-center after, align as soon as possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.