🔧 Altima - Shock Absorber / Strut Replacement

On your Altima, the rear uses separate shock absorbers (dampers), while the front uses struts (a shock + spring assembly). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing or clunking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate (rear shocks) / Advanced (front struts) | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Your Altima is a hybrid—avoid touching orange high-voltage cables (usually marked/covered). This job normally does not require HV disconnect, but keep tools away from HV wiring.
• 🛑 If doing front struts, the spring is under heavy tension—use a coil spring compressor correctly or replace the whole quick-strut (pre-assembled).
• 🛑 Let suspension/brake parts cool before working near them.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not typically required for shocks/struts, but if you’ll be working near electrical connectors, disconnect the 12V negative terminal.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm)
• Wrench set (10mm–21mm)
• Ratchet (3/8-inch drive)
• Extensions (3-inch and 6-inch)
• Penetrating oil
• Flat trim tool
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Needle-nose pliers
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mount hardware - Qty: 1 kit
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 kit
• Rear shock lower bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 kit

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the wheels.
• Loosen lug nuts with a 21mm socket before lifting.
• Spray suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5–10 minutes.
• If doing rear shocks, empty the trunk for easier access (trim may need to come back).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Decide what you’re replacing (rear shocks vs front struts)

• Rear shocks are behind the rear wheels and do not contain the coil spring.
• Front struts are part of the front coil spring assembly.
• Not sure? Tell me front or rear.

Step 2: Lift and secure the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper jacking point and raise the car.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 3 (Rear): Remove the rear shock lower bolt

• Support the rear suspension arm slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
• Remove the lower shock bolt/nut using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench (sizes can vary—use what fits snugly).
• If it’s stuck, use a breaker bar (1/2-inch drive) and tap the bolt out with a rubber mallet.

Step 4 (Rear): Access and remove the rear shock upper nuts

• Open the trunk and pull back trunk side trim using a flat trim tool.
• Locate the shock mount and remove the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the shock from the car.

Step 5 (Rear): Install the new rear shock

• Position the new shock and start the upper nuts by hand.
• Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt by hand first.
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range) to factory specification.
• Tighten with suspension supported at ride height.

Step 6 (Front): Remove items attached to the strut

• Turn the steering for access.
• Unbolt the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• If equipped, remove the sway bar end link from the strut using a 17mm wrench and 17mm socket.
• Mark bracket positions with a paint marker.

Step 7 (Front): Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Support the knuckle with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so the axle/lines aren’t pulled.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench (often tight—use a breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)).
• Use a pry bar to help separate the strut from the knuckle if needed.

Step 8 (Front): Remove the strut assembly from the top mount

• Open the hood.
• Remove the strut top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 9 (Front): If not using quick-struts, compress the spring (advanced)

• Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring. (A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring shorter so it’s not pushing hard.)
• Compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the center nut using the appropriate socket set and wrench set for your strut hardware.
• Transfer mounts/boots as needed, then reassemble and release compressors slowly.
• If unsure, use quick-struts.

Step 10 (Front): Install the new strut/quick-strut

• Set the strut into place and hand-thread the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the knuckle and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Reconnect sway bar link (if removed) using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Torque all fasteners with a torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range) to factory specification.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car off jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range) to factory specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and verify straight braking.
• If you replaced front struts, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck all visible fasteners after a short drive.
• Watch for uneven tire wear over the next few weeks (sign of alignment needed).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,600 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $200-$900 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs shocks only)

You Save: $400-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.