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2008 Honda Accord
2008 - 2012 Honda Accord
Inline 4 2.4L
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Guides
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  • Honda Accord
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  • 2008 to 2012
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  • How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2008-2012 Honda Accord (Engine: V6 3.5L)
How to Replace Rear Strut & Spring Assembly 2008-2012 Honda Accord

How to Replace Rear Strut & Spring Assembly 2008-2012 Honda Accord

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
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Nitrile
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2008-2012 Honda Accord (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specifications

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2008-2012 Honda Accord (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specifications for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012

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Orion

šŸ”§ Accord - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Accord, the front uses complete strut assemblies (shock + spring), and the rear uses separate shock absorbers. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and prevents uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (pair) / 6-10 hours (all four)


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Never remove the strut center nut unless the spring is compressed; the spring can release with extreme force.
  • āš ļø Support the car with jack stands under the proper lift points; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • āš ļø Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the suspension.
  • Disconnecting the battery is not required for this job.
  • Plan on getting an alignment after front struts.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
  • Ratchet (3/8")
  • Ratchet (1/2")
  • Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
  • Wrench set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
  • 19mm socket
  • 6mm Allen key
  • Extensions (3" and 6")
  • Pry bar (12–18")
  • Rubber mallet
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front struts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stop & dust boot kit - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear upper shock mounts - Recommended - Qty: 2
  • New self-locking nuts/bolts for strut/shock mounting - As needed - Qty: 1 set

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the tires staying on the ground.
  • Spray mounting bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
  • If you are not using ā€œquick strutsā€ (pre-assembled struts), you’ll need a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring so it can’t expand).

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the car

  • Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1 turn.
  • Lift with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
  • Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Front strut removal (one side at a time)

  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket and/or 12mm socket (depending on bracket).
  • Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut using a 17mm wrench; hold the stud with a 6mm Allen key if it spins.
  • Support the lower control arm with a floor jack (light pressure).
  • Remove the damper fork lower through-bolt using a 17mm socket and 19mm wrench.
  • Remove the damper fork pinch bolt at the strut using a 14mm socket.
  • Under the hood, remove the strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Work the strut assembly out of the wheel well; use a pry bar gently if needed.

Step 3: If installing ā€œquick strutsā€ (pre-assembled)

  • Skip spring transfer and move to installation.
  • Quick struts are safest for first-timers.

Step 4: If reusing your springs (spring transfer)

  • Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly with a ratchet until the spring is loose in the perch.
  • Remove the strut center nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) with a ratchet while holding the shaft from turning.
  • Transfer spring, boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut, matching orientation marks using a paint marker.
  • Install the center nut and tighten with the pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
  • Slowly release the spring compressor evenly and re-check that the spring ends sit in the pockets.

Step 5: Front strut installation

  • Position the strut in the tower and start the top nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
  • Slide the damper fork onto the strut and install the pinch bolt using a 14mm socket.
  • Install the damper fork lower through-bolt using a 17mm socket and 19mm wrench.
  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and 6mm Allen key if needed.
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket and/or 12mm socket.
  • Tighten fasteners to spec using a torque wrench:
    • Upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 44 NĀ·m (33 ft-lbs)
    • Damper fork pinch bolt: Torque to 64 NĀ·m (47 ft-lbs)
    • Damper fork lower through-bolt: Torque to 116 NĀ·m (86 ft-lbs)
    • Sway bar end link nut (at strut): Torque to 44 NĀ·m (33 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Rear shock removal (one side at a time)

  • Open the trunk and pull back the side trim to access the upper shock mount nuts; use needle-nose pliers and a trim tool if clips are present.
  • Support the rear lower control arm with a floor jack (light pressure).
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Remove the upper shock mount nuts in the trunk using a 14mm socket.
  • Remove the shock assembly.

Step 7: Rear shock installation

  • Install the new shock, start the upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
  • Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Torque fasteners with a torque wrench:
    • Upper shock mount nuts: Torque to 22 NĀ·m (16 ft-lbs)
    • Lower shock bolt: Torque to 59 NĀ·m (44 ft-lbs)
  • Reinstall trunk trim.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

  • Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the car off jack stands using a floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 NĀ·m (80 ft-lbs).

āœ… After Repair

  • Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • Re-check lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment, especially after replacing front struts.
  • If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, stop and get alignment immediately.

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, depends on front/rear/all four)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only, depends on quick struts vs. bare struts)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.


šŸŽÆ Ready to get started?

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Guide for Suspension Strut replace for these Honda vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2012 Honda Accord-Inline 4 2.4L-
2012 Honda Accord-V6 3.5L-
2011 Honda Accord-Inline 4 2.4L-
2011 Honda Accord-V6 3.5L-
2010 Honda Accord-Inline 4 2.4L-
2010 Honda Accord-V6 3.5L-
2009 Honda Accord-Inline 4 2.4L-
2009 Honda Accord-V6 3.5L-
2008 Honda Accord-Inline 4 2.4L-
2008 Honda Accord-V6 3.5L-
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