🔧 CR-V - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

Your CR-V uses front struts (shock + spring as one unit) and rear shocks (shock is separate from the spring). Replacing worn dampers restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces tire cupping.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours (all four)

Two quick questions (so I can tailor parts/steps):

• ❓ Are you replacing front, rear, or all four?
• ❓ For the front: are you installing complete strut assemblies (quick-struts), or reusing your springs (requires a spring compressor)?

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack—use jack stands on solid ground.
• ⚠️ If reusing front springs: a spring compressor is dangerous if misused—keep hands/face out of the spring’s path and compress evenly on both sides.
• ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle so the CV axle and brake hose are not stretched when the strut comes out.
• ⚠️ After suspension work, get a 4-wheel alignment ASAP (front removal affects alignment).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
• Wrench set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Pry bar (18–24")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Punch (6–8 mm)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Allen key set (for sway bar link counter-hold)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (complete quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• OR front struts (cartridges) + front strut mounts + bearings - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2 each
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• New self-locking nuts/bolts (as applicable) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels that stay on the ground with wheel chocks.
• Spray penetrating oil on the front strut-to-knuckle bolts and rear lower shock bolts 10–20 minutes before removal.
• If you’re not using complete quick-struts, set up your spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the coil spring) on a bench area before starting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the vehicle

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
• Lift the front (or rear) with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.
• When reinstalling wheels later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 2: Front struts — detach brackets and sway bar link

• On the front strut body, remove the brake hose bracket bolt using a 12mm socket. Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Remove the ABS wire/bracket fastener(s) from the strut using a 10mm socket. Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm wrench (use an Allen key to counter-hold if it spins). Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Tip: Support the knuckle so nothing hangs.

Step 3: Front struts — separate strut from the steering knuckle

• Support the steering knuckle/lower control arm area with a floor jack (light pressure only).
• Mark the bolt positions with a paint marker to help keep alignment close until you get an alignment.
• Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar (hold the bolt head with a 19mm wrench if needed).
• If bolts are stuck, tap them out using a hammer and punch.
• On reassembly: Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 4: Front struts — remove the strut from the body

• Open the hood.
• At the strut tower, remove the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket (do not remove any center nut on the strut shaft).
• Hold the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut, then lift the strut assembly out.
• On reassembly: Torque the upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 5: Front struts — swap parts (two options)

• Option A (recommended): Complete quick-strut
• Install the new complete strut assembly in the reverse order (no spring compressor needed).
• Option B: Reuse your spring (spring compressor required)
• Install a spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
• Remove the top nut using a ratchet and appropriate socket while counter-holding the shaft if needed.
• Transfer the spring, dust boot, bump stop, mount, and bearing as required, then tighten the new strut’s top nut to the strut manufacturer’s spec.
• Slowly release the spring compressor and confirm the spring ends are seated correctly in the upper and lower seats.

Step 6: Rear shocks — access the upper mount

• Open the rear doors and fold the rear seat backs down.
• In the cargo/side trim area, remove the necessary trim fasteners using a trim clip removal tool to access the rear shock upper mount nuts.
• Loosen (but do not fully remove yet) the upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.

Step 7: Rear shocks — remove lower bolt and remove the shock

• Support the rear lower control arm with a floor jack (this controls suspension droop).
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the upper mount nuts fully using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.
• On reassembly: Torque the lower shock bolt to 118 Nm (87 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• On reassembly: Torque the upper mount nuts to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 8: Reinstall, torque, and repeat on the other side

• Reinstall all brackets and fasteners using the correct socket or wrench.
• Double-check that the brake hose and ABS wire are routed exactly like before and clipped back in place.
• Repeat the same procedure on the other side (replace in pairs).

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✅ After Repair

• Do a slow test drive and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Re-check wheel lug nut torque with a torque wrench: 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
• Get a 4-wheel alignment (especially after front strut replacement).
• If you replaced front parts that affect ride height, re-check headlight aim at night.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹45,000 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: ₹10,000-₹30,000 (parts only, depends on quick-struts vs struts)

You Save: ₹8,000-₹15,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800-₹2,000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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