🔧 Impala - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Impala, the rear uses traditional shock absorbers, while the front uses strut assemblies (a strut is a shock that also supports the spring and affects alignment).

This guide covers rear shocks and front struts. If you replace front struts, you should plan on a front-end alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: Rear: 1.0-2.0 hours | Front: 2.5-4.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 If doing front struts without “quick-struts”, a spring compressor is required (it compresses the coil spring; mishandling can cause serious injury).
• 🛑 Keep fingers clear of suspension pinch points while lowering/raising the knuckle.
• 🛑 After front strut work, get an alignment to prevent tire wear and pulling.
• 🛑 No battery disconnect is typically required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm–24mm, 3/8" and 1/2")
• Wrench set (10mm–24mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Penetrating oil
• Pry bar (18")
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Spring compressor (external, two-piece) (specialty)
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Rear shock mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the wheels staying on the ground.
• Use a breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on shock/strut bolts and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
• If doing front struts, use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions as a reference. Still get an alignment afterward.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front or rear at the proper jack point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket and ratchet (1/2").

Step 2: Replace rear shocks (left and right)

• Support the rear control arm slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so the suspension isn’t hanging hard.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 3/8" and 1/2") and breaker bar (1/2").
• Access the upper shock mount from inside the trunk/side trim as needed:
  • Remove clips/panels with a trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers.
  • Remove the upper nut(s) using a wrench set (10mm–24mm) and socket set (8mm–24mm, 3/8" and 1/2").
• Remove the shock. Install the new shock in the reverse order.
• Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs) for the lower shock bolt.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the upper shock nut(s).

Step 3: Replace front struts (recommended: quick-struts)

• Open the hood and locate the strut mount nuts at the top of each strut tower.
• At the wheel well, remove any brackets attached to the strut (brake hose/ABS wiring) using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 3/8" and 1/2") and needle-nose pliers for clips.
• Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut using a wrench set (10mm–24mm) and socket set (8mm–24mm, 3/8" and 1/2").
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle bolts with a paint marker.
• Remove the two large strut-to-steering-knuckle bolts using a breaker bar (1/2"), socket set (8mm–24mm, 3/8" and 1/2"), and a hammer (16 oz) as needed.
• Support the knuckle so it doesn’t pull on the axle/brake hose using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and a pry bar (18") for positioning.
• From the engine bay, remove the strut mount nuts using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 3/8" and 1/2"), then remove the strut assembly.
• Install the new strut (quick-strut) in reverse order.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the upper strut mount nuts.
• Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs) for the strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) for the sway bar end link nut.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the brake hose/ABS bracket fasteners (if equipped).

Step 4: If you are NOT using quick-struts (spring transfer)

• Install a spring compressor (external, two-piece) (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring. (This tool compresses the coil spring so it can be safely removed.)
• Tighten evenly using a wrench set (10mm–24mm) until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the strut top center nut using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 3/8" and 1/2") and wrench set (10mm–24mm).
• Transfer the spring and mount to the new strut, then release the compressor slowly and evenly.
• If unsure, use quick-struts instead.

Step 5: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range) in a star pattern: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and verify straight braking.
• 🧪 Re-check all visible fasteners for tightness after the test drive.
• 🧪 If front struts were replaced, schedule a 4-wheel alignment (or at least front alignment).
• 🧪 Watch for uneven tire wear over the next 1–2 weeks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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