🔧 Tacoma - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Tacoma, the rear uses simple shock absorbers, while the front uses a coilover strut assembly (shock + spring together). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing or nose-dive.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Chock the wheels and work on level ground.
• ⚠️ If replacing front struts, avoid disassembling the spring unless you have the right tool; a compressed coil spring stores dangerous energy.
• ⚠️ If you’re reusing your spring/top mount, use a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely compresses the spring) and follow its instructions exactly.
• 🧤 Wear eye protection; rust and debris fall from the frame and suspension.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Socket set 3/8-inch drive (10mm-19mm)
• Socket set 1/2-inch drive (14mm-22mm)
• Combination wrench set (12mm-22mm)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Trim clip tool
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (loaded struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mount nuts - Replace if damaged/rusted - Qty: 6
• Front lower strut bolts/nuts - Replace if damaged/rusted - Qty: 4
• Rear shock mounting hardware - Replace if damaged/rusted - Qty: 1 kit

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels if you’re lifting the front; chock the front wheels if you’re lifting the rear.
• Use penetreting oil on shock/strut bolts and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
• Loosen lug nuts slightly with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Tip: Start with the rear; it’s simpler.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear (for rear shocks)

• Use a floor jack under the rear differential to raise the rear.
• Place jack stands under the frame rails and lower the truck onto them.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear shock (one side at a time)

• Support the rear axle lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
• Remove the lower shock bolt/nut using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Remove the upper shock bolt/nut using a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench.
• If the shock is stuck, use a pry bar 18-inch carefully to pop it free.

Step 3: Install the new rear shock

• Install the shock with the same orientation as the old one.
• Start the upper hardware by hand, then the lower hardware by hand.
• Tighten mounting hardware using a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive:
  • Rear upper shock bolt/nut: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
  • Rear lower shock bolt/nut: Torque to 101 Nm (75 ft-lbs)
• Tip: Don’t fully tighten until the bolt is centered.

Step 4: Reinstall rear wheels and lower the rear

• Reinstall wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Lower the truck, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Lift and support the front (for front struts)

• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Lift the front using a floor jack under the front crossmember.
• Set jack stands under the frame and lower onto stands.
• Remove the front wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 6: Free the lines and access the strut

• Remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets attached to the strut using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Use needle-nose pliers and a trim clip tool for any plastic clips.

Step 7: Remove the front strut assembly

• Support the lower control arm lightly with the floor jack.
• Remove the two lower strut-to-lower-control-arm bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket, breaker bar, and 19mm wrench.
• Under the hood, remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Pull the strut assembly out through the wheel well.

Step 8: Install the new front strut assembly

• Position the new strut into the strut tower and hand-thread the three upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower holes and install the lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Torque fasteners with a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive:
  • Front upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs)
  • Front lower strut bolts/nuts: Torque to 165 Nm (122 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
• Tip: Start all bolts by hand first.

Step 9: Reinstall front wheels and lower the front

• Reinstall wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Lower the truck, then torque lug nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm brake hoses/ABS wires are not stretched or rubbing.
• Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks over bumps.
• Get a front wheel alignment after replacing front struts.
• Re-check lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.