🔧 Expedition - Strut Replacement

Your Expedition uses front strut assemblies (spring + shock together). The rear typically uses separate shocks (not struts), so the procedure and parts differ depending on which end you’re replacing.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours (front pair)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Do not remove the center nut on top of the strut unless the spring is compressed; the coil spring stores dangerous energy.
• ⚠️ Support the Expedition with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ If equipped with electronic/active damping or air suspension, extra steps apply and connectors/lines can be damaged if handled incorrectly.
• ⚠️ An alignment is required after front strut replacement to prevent tire wear and poor handling.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket (21mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm-24mm)
• Wrench set (8mm-24mm)
• Pry bar
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Strut spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut dust boot & bump stop kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end link - Optional if worn - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts - Recommended if specified for one-time use - Qty: 1 kit

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly using a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts with penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes.
• Two quick questions so I give you the exact procedure:
  • Are you replacing the front struts or the rear shocks?
  • Does your Expedition have air suspension or electronic/active damping (you’ll usually see an electrical connector at the strut)?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm the exact setup (front vs rear, standard vs air/active)

• Look behind the front wheel: a front strut is a large assembly that bolts to the steering knuckle and up into the body.
• If you see an electrical connector on the strut body, stop here and tell me; that changes the steps.
• If you see an air line/bag, stop here and tell me; that changes the steps.

Step 2: Lift and support the front end

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the correct front jacking point.
• Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar.

Step 3: Free the wiring and brake hose from the strut

• Remove any brackets/clips from the strut using a socket set (8mm-24mm) and trim clip removal tool.
• Move the brake hose/wiring aside so it cannot be stretched when the suspension droops.
• Take a photo before unbolting brackets.

Step 4: Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it limits movement)

• Remove the end link nut using a socket set (8mm-24mm) and wrench set (8mm-24mm).
• If the stud spins, hold it with the appropriate wrench set (8mm-24mm) while turning the nut.

Step 5: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle.
• This helps you reassemble close to the original camber position, but you still need an alignment.

Step 6: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the lower control arm/knuckle lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts using a breaker bar (1/2-inch drive) and socket set (8mm-24mm).
• If needed, use a pry bar to separate the knuckle from the strut.
• Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) on reassembly (confirm once I know front vs rear and your suspension type).

Step 7: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the strut mount at the top of the strut tower.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set (8mm-24mm).
• Hold the strut as the last nut comes off so it doesn’t drop.
• Do not remove the center top nut at this stage.

Step 8: Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle

• Pull the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
• Keep the knuckle supported so the CV axle and brake hose aren’t overextended.

Step 9: Transfer spring and mount (only if not using complete quick-struts)

• Install the strut spring compressor (specialty) and compress the spring evenly until it’s loose in the mount. (A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring safely.)
• Remove the center top nut using a socket set (8mm-24mm) and wrench set (8mm-24mm) as needed.
• Transfer the mount/bearing, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
• Slowly release the compressor and ensure the spring ends seat correctly in their pockets.

Step 10: Install the strut assembly

• Position the strut in the tower and start the upper mount nuts by hand using a socket set (8mm-24mm).
• Align the lower strut with the knuckle, insert bolts, and snug using a socket set (8mm-24mm).
• Reconnect sway bar end link using a socket set (8mm-24mm) and wrench set (8mm-24mm).
• Reinstall hose/wire brackets using a socket set (8mm-24mm) and trim clip removal tool.
• Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) for all fasteners (I’ll provide exact Ford specs once you confirm the two questions).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm lug nut socket.
• Lower the Expedition from jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts with a torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs range) to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) (I’ll confirm your exact spec).

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm steering returns to center.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• Re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs range) after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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