🔧 Impreza - Strut (Shock Absorber) Replacement

On your Impreza, the “shock absorbers” are part of the strut assemblies (front and rear). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire contact with the road.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: replacing complete strut assemblies (recommended).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ If you reuse springs, a spring compressor is required; springs store dangerous energy.
• ⚠️ Keep brake hoses and ABS wires unstretched; do not let the knuckle hang.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement, a wheel alignment is required to prevent tire wear.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 30-200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Socket set: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Wrench set: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• 6mm hex key
• Pry bar (18-24")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assembly (quick-strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear complete strut assembly (quick-strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Upper strut mount nuts - Replace as needed - Qty: 8-12
• Strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Replace as needed - Qty: 8
• Sway bar end link hardware - Replace as needed - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels if lifting the front; chock the front wheels if lifting the rear.
• Use a 19mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts.
• Quick-struts avoid spring compressor risk.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

• Use a floor jack at the proper jack point and set the car on jack stands.
• Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the front strut (one side at a time)

• Turn the steering for access as needed.
• Remove the brake hose bracket from the strut using a 12mm socket. Don’t twist the hose.
• Remove the ABS wire/bracket fasteners from the strut using a 12mm socket and trim clip tool.
• If equipped, disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut using a 17mm wrench and 6mm hex key (the hex holds the stud from spinning). Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions with a paint marker (helps keep alignment close for the drive to the shop).
• Support the knuckle with a bungee cord so it can’t drop and pull on the axle or brake hose.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and breaker bar. Torque to 152 Nm (112 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Open the hood. Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 12mm socket. Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 3: Install the front strut

• Position the new strut in the tower and hand-thread the three upper nuts using a 12mm socket.
• Align the knuckle to the strut and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Torque the lower bolts: Torque to 152 Nm (112 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Torque the upper mount nuts: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Reinstall sway bar end link (if removed) using a 17mm wrench and 6mm hex key. Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).
• Reattach ABS wire/brackets and brake hose bracket using a 12mm socket. Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Remove the rear strut (one side at a time)

• In the trunk, pull back the side trim to access the upper strut mount (use a trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers as needed).
• Loosen (but do not fully remove yet) the upper mount nuts using a 12mm socket.
• At the wheel well, remove ABS/bracket fasteners (if attached to strut) using a 12mm socket.
• Support the rear knuckle with a bungee cord.
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench (some hardware may be 19mm). Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
• Remove the upper mount nuts fully using a 12mm socket, then remove the rear strut assembly.

Step 5: Install the rear strut

• Place the new rear strut into position and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 12mm socket.
• Install the lower bolts/nuts using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Torque the lower bolts: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Torque the upper mount nuts: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Reattach any ABS wire/brackets using a 12mm socket. Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall trunk trim using the trim clip tool.

Step 6: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench. Torque to 120 Nm (88 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Do a slow test drive and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Recheck that brake hoses and ABS wires are clipped and not stretched.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Re-torque lug nuts after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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