🔧 Forester - Shock Absorber (Strut) Replacement

On your Forester, the “shock absorbers” are built into the strut assemblies (front and rear). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Coil springs store extreme force—use a proper spring compressor or install complete strut assemblies.
• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands/face away from the spring ends during compression.
• ⚠️ Mark the front camber bolt position before loosening; alignment is required after.
• Disconnecting the battery is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8"
• Socket set 3/8" and 1/2"
• Wrench set (metric)
• 19mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Pry bar

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (left and right) - Qty: 2
• Rear strut assemblies (left and right) - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Rear strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Front lower strut bolts/nuts - Qty: 4
• Rear lower strut bolts/nuts - Qty: 4
• Sway bar end links (optional, if worn) - Qty: 2 front / 2 rear

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, place the shifter in Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels on the opposite end you’re lifting.
• Loosen lug nuts with a 19mm socket before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts.
• If you are NOT using complete strut assemblies: a spring compressor is a tool that safely squeezes the coil spring so you can move the top mount without the spring “exploding” outward.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm your parts plan (important)

• If you bought complete strut assemblies (strut + spring + mount): you can skip spring-compressor steps.
• If you bought bare struts only: you must transfer the spring and top mount using a spring compressor (specialty).

Step 2: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Lift the front using a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket, then remove both front wheels.

Step 3: Disconnect brackets and sway bar link at the front strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 12mm socket (and/or 14mm socket depending on bracket hardware).
• Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Tip: Hold the link stud with a wrench if it spins.

Step 4: Mark the front camber bolt position

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the upper strut-to-knuckle camber bolt and the knuckle.
• This helps you drive to the alignment shop without the steering being wildly off.

Step 5: Remove the front strut from the knuckle

• Support the knuckle slightly with a floor jack so the brake hose isn’t stretched.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• If the bolts are tight, use a breaker bar 1/2". Use a pry bar to gently separate if needed.

Step 6: Remove the front strut top nuts

• Open the hood.
• Remove the three strut top nuts using a 14mm socket, then lift the strut out.
• Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) for installation (front top nuts).

Step 7: (If bare strut) Transfer spring and mount to the new front strut

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the center top nut using a socket set 3/8" and 1/2" and wrench set (metric) as needed, then transfer the top mount and spring.
• Slowly release the compressor, making sure the spring ends seat correctly in the lower perch.
• Tip: Double-check spring end sits in the pocket.

Step 8: Install the front strut

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Slide the knuckle into the strut and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Align your camber marks before final tightening.
• Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) for the front strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) for the front strut top nuts.

Step 9: Reinstall front sway bar link and brackets

• Reinstall sway bar end link nut using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs) for the front end link nut.
• Reattach brake hose/ABS wire brackets using a 12mm socket / 14mm socket.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for small bracket bolts.

Step 10: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Lift the rear using a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 11: Access the rear strut top nuts

• Open the rear hatch.
• Remove the rear cargo floor panels and side trim as needed using a trim clip removal tool and needle-nose pliers.
• Locate the three rear strut top nuts on each side.

Step 12: Remove rear strut lower bolt

• Support the rear lower control arm slightly with a floor jack.
• Remove the rear strut lower bolt/nut using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.

Step 13: Remove rear strut top nuts and remove the strut

• Remove the three rear strut top nuts using a 14mm socket, then remove the strut assembly.
• Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) for installation (rear top nuts).

Step 14: (If bare strut) Transfer spring and mount to the new rear strut

• Compress the spring using the spring compressor (specialty) evenly, then remove the center top nut and transfer parts.
• Release the compressor slowly and confirm the spring is seated correctly.

Step 15: Install the rear strut

• Position the rear strut and start the top nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
• Install the lower bolt/nut using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) for the rear strut lower bolt.
• Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) for the rear strut top nuts.

Step 16: Reinstall wheels and set the vehicle on the ground

• Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) for wheel lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm steering feels normal.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (front camber/steering angle will change).
• After 50-100 miles, re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench 1/2".

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$1,200 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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