🔧 Forester - Shock/Strut Replacement

On your Forester, the “shock absorbers” are built into the front and rear strut assemblies (a strut is a shock that also supports the suspension). Replacement restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and helps braking/handling feel stable again.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours (all four)

• ❓ Are you replacing front, rear, or all four?
• ❓ Are you installing complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) or reusing your springs (requires a spring compressor)?

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never remove the strut’s center top nut unless the spring is safely compressed.
• 🧱 Support the vehicle on jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a jack.
• 🧤 Wear eye protection; rust and grit fall when parts separate.
• 🧯 Keep hands clear of pinch points between the knuckle and strut.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Extension set (3/8")
• Pry bar
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
• Hex key set
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mount nuts (self-locking) - Qty: 6
• Rear upper strut mount nuts (self-locking) - Qty: 4
• Strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts (as needed) - Qty: 4-8
• Sway bar end link nuts (as needed) - Qty: 2-4
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set parking brake, and chock the rear wheels (or front wheels if doing rears first).
• 🔧 Use a 19mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
• 🧼 Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts 10-15 minutes before removal.
• 🖍️ If doing front struts: use a paint marker to mark the camber bolt position before removal. This helps keep alignment close.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Place wheel chocks, then lift the corner with a floor jack.
• Set the vehicle on jack stands.
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Free the brake hose/ABS wire from the strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS brackets from the strut using a 12mm socket.
• Use needle-nose pliers to remove any plastic clips (do not pull the wire itself).

Step 3 (Front): Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Remove the end link nut using a 17mm wrench (or 17mm socket).
• If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key while turning the nut with the 17mm wrench.

Step 4 (Front): Mark and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Use a paint marker to mark the eccentric (camber) bolt orientation against the strut/knuckle.
• Support the knuckle with the floor jack (light pressure only).
• Remove the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and breaker bar.
• Torque on reassembly: 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) for the strut-to-knuckle bolts.

Step 5 (Front): Remove the strut top nuts and remove the strut

• Open the hood.
• Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 12mm socket.
• Pull the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
• Torque on reassembly: 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) for the upper mount nuts.

Step 6 (Front): Transfer spring only if you are NOT using quick-struts

• Install a spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring (a spring compressor clamps the coil spring so it can’t expand).
• Tighten both sides evenly using a ratchet until the spring is loose in the seats.
• Remove the strut center nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and a hex key to hold the shaft.
• Move the mount/bearing/spring to the new strut in the same orientation, then tighten the center nut.
• Slowly release the compressor, alternating side-to-side.

Step 7 (Front): Install the new strut and reconnect everything

• Position the strut in the tower and start the three upper nuts by hand using a 12mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
• Slide the knuckle onto the strut and install the two lower bolts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Align the camber bolt to your paint marks before final tightening.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench.
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 12mm socket.
• Torque: Strut-to-knuckle bolts 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)
• Torque: Upper mount nuts 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
• Torque: Sway bar end link nut 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)

Step 8 (Rear): Access the rear strut top nuts

• Open the rear hatch.
• Remove the cargo side trim access covers using a trim clip tool.
• Locate the two upper strut mount nuts per side.

Step 9 (Rear): Disconnect brackets and remove the lower strut bolt

• At the wheel well, remove any strut line brackets using a 12mm socket.
• Support the rear knuckle lightly with a floor jack.
• Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolt using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Torque on reassembly: 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) for the lower bolt.

Step 10 (Rear): Remove the rear strut top nuts and remove the strut

• Remove the two upper nuts using a 12mm socket.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
• Torque on reassembly: 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) for the upper mount nuts.

Step 11 (Rear): Install the new rear strut

• Position the strut, start the upper nuts by hand using a 12mm socket.
• Install the lower bolt using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Reattach any brackets using a 12mm socket.
• Torque: Lower strut-to-knuckle bolt 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)
• Torque: Upper mount nuts 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall wheels using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque: Lug nuts 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Recheck lug torque after 50-100 miles.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧭 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (especially after front struts).
• 🚗 Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and recheck all brackets.
• 🔍 Look for twisted brake hoses/ABS wires at full steering lock (front).
• 🛠️ If you reused springs: recheck that the spring ends sit correctly in the seats.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $400-$1,200 (parts only)

You Save: $800-$1,200 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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