How to Replace Front & Rear Struts (Shock Absorbers) on a 2011-2013 Subaru Forester
Step-by-step strut replacement with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes
How to Replace Front & Rear Struts (Shock Absorbers) on a 2011-2013 Subaru Forester
Step-by-step strut replacement with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes for 2011, 2012, 2013
đź”§ Forester - Shock/Strut Replacement
On your Forester, the “shock absorbers” are part of the complete strut assemblies (front and rear). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing or clunking over bumps.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours (all four)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ If you are reusing your springs, you must use a coil spring compressor (specialty). A compressed spring stores dangerous energy.
- ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wire slack; do not let the knuckle hang by the hose.
- ⚠️ After reassembly, get a 4-wheel alignment. Strut replacement changes alignment.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 3/8" (10–80 Nm range)
- Torque wrench 1/2" (50–250 Nm range)
- Socket set: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm
- Wrench set: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- Hex key set (for sway bar end link stud)
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Pry bar
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front upper strut mounts/bearings - Recommended - Qty: 2
- Rear upper strut mounts - Recommended - Qty: 2
- Front bump stops & dust boots - Recommended - Qty: 2
- Rear bump stops & dust boots - Recommended - Qty: 2
- Strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts - Recommended if corroded - Qty: 4
- Sway bar end links - Optional if loose/noisy - Qty: 2 front / 2 rear
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- đź§° Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the parking brake.
- Loosen the wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket before lifting.
- Spray the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts with penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes.
- If you are not using “complete” strut assemblies, plan to transfer springs using a coil spring compressor (specialty). (A “strut assembly” includes the spring already installed.)
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and support the vehicle
- Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- Lift the front (or rear) with a floor jack and support with jack stands at proper lift points.
- Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Front strut removal (one side at a time)
- Unbolt the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 12mm socket or 12mm wrench (varies by bracket).
- Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut using a 17mm socket and a hex key to hold the stud if it spins.
- Mark the relationship of the strut-to-knuckle area with a paint marker so you can reassemble close to original.
- Support the knuckle lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and breaker bar.
- Under the hood, remove the upper strut mount nuts using a 12mm socket. Leave one nut threaded a few turns until you’re ready to catch the strut.
- Hold the strut, remove the last upper nut with a 12mm socket, and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
Step 3: Front strut installation
- Position the new strut into the tower and hand-start the upper mount nuts using a 12mm socket.
- Align the strut with the knuckle and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm socket and hex key.
- Reinstall the brake hose/ABS brackets using a 12mm socket.
- Tighten fasteners:
- Upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench and 12mm socket.
- Strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench and 19mm socket.
- Front sway bar end link nut: Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench and 17mm socket.
- Tip: Tighten lower bolts with suspension supported.
Step 4: Rear strut removal (one side at a time)
- In the cargo area, remove the side trim access for the strut top using a flat trim tool. (The upper nuts are behind the interior trim.)
- Loosen (but don’t remove yet) the rear upper mount nuts using a 12mm socket.
- At the wheel well, unbolt any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 12mm socket.
- Support the rear knuckle/arm slightly with the floor jack.
- Remove the lower strut bolt/nut using a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and breaker bar.
- Back in the cargo area, remove the upper nuts fully using a 12mm socket, then remove the rear strut assembly.
Step 5: Rear strut installation
- Position the rear strut into place and hand-start the upper mount nuts using a 12mm socket.
- Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt/nut using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
- Reinstall any brake hose/ABS brackets using a 12mm socket.
- Tighten fasteners:
- Rear upper mount nuts: Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench and 12mm socket.
- Rear lower strut bolt/nut: Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench and 19mm socket.
Step 6: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench and 19mm socket.
âś… After Repair
- 🔍 Do a slow test drive and listen for clunks; recheck all visible fasteners.
- Check that brake hoses and ABS wires are clipped/bracketed and not stretched.
- Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- Re-torque lug nuts after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$1,100 (parts only)
You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Suspension Strut replace for these Subaru vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2013 Subaru Forester | - | - | - |
| 2012 Subaru Forester | - | - | - |
| 2011 Subaru Forester | - | - | - |


















