🔧 Legacy - Strut Replacement

Replacing struts can restore ride comfort, handling, and braking stability. On your Legacy, the front and rear struts mount differently, and the exact parts/tools depend on whether you’re swapping complete assemblies or transferring the coil spring.

Before I give the exact step-by-step for your setup, answer these 2 quick questions:

• ❓ Are you replacing front, rear, or all four struts?
• ❓ Are you installing complete quick-strut assemblies (recommended for beginners), or reusing your springs with a spring compressor?

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (pair), 6-10 hours (all four)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Coil springs store huge energy—if you’re not using complete assemblies, a spring compressor can be dangerous if used incorrectly.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on the pinch welds or approved lift points—never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep brake hoses and ABS wires unstrained—don’t let the knuckle hang by the hose/wiring.
• ⚠️ After front strut work, you should get a 4-wheel alignment soon after.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for typical strut replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10–80 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 3/8" and 1/2" drive (10mm–19mm)
• Wrench set (10mm–19mm)
• Pry bar
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (left and right) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear complete strut assemblies (left and right) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Rear upper strut mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

If you are NOT using complete assemblies:

• Front struts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear struts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts/bearings - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear strut mounts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the wheels staying on the ground.
• Spray penetrating oil on lower strut bolts and sway-bar end link nuts 10–20 minutes before disassembly.
• If using a spring compressor: inspect it for bent hooks/threads; never point the spring at your body.
• Plan an alignment appointment after front struts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the car

• Use a breaker bar 1/2" with the correct lug socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front or rear, then support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using the socket set.
• When reinstalling wheels later: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Identify whether you’re doing Front or Rear struts

• Front struts connect to the steering knuckle and affect alignment.
• Rear struts connect to the rear knuckle and typically do not change toe/camber as much, but alignment is still smart if the car pulls.
• Reply with “front”, “rear”, or “all four” and I’ll tailor the remaining steps exactly.

Step 3: (Front) Unclip brackets and disconnect the sway-bar end link

• Use a trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers to free any ABS wire clips from the strut body (don’t break the clip).
• Use the socket set and wrench set to remove the sway-bar end link nut from the strut bracket.
• Support the knuckle with a bungee cord so the brake hose is not stretched.

Step 4: (Front) Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Mark the bolt position with a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
• Use a breaker bar 1/2" and the socket set to remove the two large lower bolts/nuts.
• Use a pry bar as needed to separate the knuckle from the strut.
• Don’t let the knuckle hang.

Step 5: (Front) Remove the upper mount nuts and remove the strut

• Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Use the socket set to remove the upper nuts while holding the strut from below.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 6: (If NOT using complete assemblies) Transfer the spring to the new strut

• A spring compressor is a tool that squeezes the coil spring shorter so it can be removed safely.
• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly using the socket set.
• Use a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) to remove the top center nut, then move the mount/spring to the new strut.
• Slowly release the compressors evenly after reassembly.

Step 7: Reinstall the strut assembly

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-start the upper mount nuts using the socket set.
• Reconnect the knuckle to the strut and install the lower bolts using the socket set and breaker bar 1/2".
• Reconnect the sway-bar end link using the socket set and wrench set.
• Reattach ABS/brake line brackets and clips using the socket set, trim clip tool, and needle-nose pliers.

Step 8: (Rear) Access the upper mount nuts

• In the trunk, remove the side trim panels near the strut towers using a trim clip tool.
• Use the socket set to loosen (but not fully remove) the upper mount nuts before removing the lower bolt.

Step 9: (Rear) Remove the lower strut bolt, then remove the strut

• Support the rear knuckle with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) lightly.
• Use a breaker bar 1/2" and socket set to remove the lower strut bolt/nut.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using the socket set and pull the strut out.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and hand-start lug nuts using the socket set.
• Lower the car using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Important torque note

• The large strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway-bar end link nut, and upper mount nuts have Subaru-specific torque specs that vary by position. Once you answer the 2 questions above (front/rear/all four and quick-strut vs spring transfer), I’ll give you the exact torque list for your exact job and walk you through it step-by-step.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive at low speed first and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Recheck that ABS wire/brake hose routing matches the original and isn’t twisted.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment (strongly recommended after front struts).
• Re-torque lug nuts after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, front and rear)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs struts)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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