🔧 Impreza - Strut Replacement

Replacing struts restores ride comfort, steering control, and braking stability. On your Impreza, the strut is a complete suspension unit that bolts to the body at the top and the steering knuckle (front) or rear knuckle (rear) at the bottom.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never remove the center nut on the strut top without a spring compressor; the coil spring is under heavy force.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands at the pinch welds or approved lift points; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep brake hoses and ABS wires from stretching when the knuckle hangs.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement, you need a wheel alignment to prevent tire wear and pulling.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set metric (10mm-21mm)
• Wrench set metric (12mm-19mm)
• 6mm hex key
• Pry bar
• Dead blow hammer
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader tool (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount (top hat) and bearing - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear strut mounts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
• Rear bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
• New self-locking strut-to-knuckle nuts - Qty: 4
• New sway bar link nuts - Qty: 4

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (for front struts) or in front of the front wheels (for rear struts).
• Loosen the wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and sway bar link nuts and let it soak 10 minutes.
• Tip: If you’re using quick-struts, you won’t need the spring compressor.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Quick questions before I lock the steps to your job:

• 🔎 Are you replacing front struts, rear struts, or all four?
• 🔎 Are you installing complete quick-strut assemblies (pre-assembled) or reusing your springs with bare struts?

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel(s)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the approved lift point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) securely and lower the car onto them.
• Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Disconnect the brake/ABS brackets from the strut

• Locate the brake hose bracket and ABS wire bracket on the strut body.
• Remove bracket bolts with a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Move the hose/wire aside so they won’t be stretched.

Step 3: Remove the sway bar end link from the strut (if attached)

• Hold the end link stud with a 6mm hex key if it spins.
• Remove the nut using a 14mm socket or 17mm socket (varies by hardware).

Step 4: Mark camber bolt position (front)

• On the front strut-to-knuckle connection, one bolt is typically an alignment (camber) bolt.
• Use a paint marker to mark the bolt head and knuckle position for a reference.
• Tip: This helps you drive to the alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the knuckle slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
• Remove the two lower nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Tap the bolts out using a dead blow hammer (use a pry bar gently if needed).
• Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the top strut mount nuts

• Open the hood (front) or access the trunk/interior panels (rear) to reach the top mount nuts.
• Remove the top nuts using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket (varies by location).
• Hold the strut with one hand as the last nut comes off, then remove the strut assembly.
• Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 7: If reusing springs, transfer parts to the new strut (skip if quick-strut)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose from the top mount.
• Remove the top center nut using the correct socket set metric (10mm-21mm) while holding the shaft with a 6mm hex key if required.
• Move the spring, dust boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same order.
• This is where the spring sits: align the spring end to the “pocket” in the perch.
• Release the spring compressor slowly and evenly.

Step 8: Install the strut assembly

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket.
• Line up the lower strut bracket with the knuckle.
• If the knuckle won’t slide in, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) carefully.

Step 9: Reinstall lower bolts and torque

• Insert the lower bolts by hand, then install new nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Snug both bolts, then torque them evenly.
• Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reattach sway bar link, brake hose, and ABS brackets

• Install the sway bar end link nut using a 14mm socket or 17mm socket while holding with a 6mm hex key if needed.
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

---

✅ After Repair

• Do a short, slow test drive and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive (20-200 ft-lbs range) after 25-50 miles.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, avoid long drives until aligned.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$1,100 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.