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2018 Subaru Crosstrek
2018 Subaru Crosstrek
Base - Flat 4 2.0L
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Subaru Crosstrek Front Strut Replacement (2018-2023 Models)

Subaru Crosstrek Front Strut Replacement (2018-2023 Models)

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
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How to Replace Front & Rear Struts on a 2018 Subaru Crosstrek (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step strut removal and installation with tools, parts list, safety tips, and alignment notes

How to Replace Front & Rear Struts on a 2018 Subaru Crosstrek (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step strut removal and installation with tools, parts list, safety tips, and alignment notes

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Orion Logo White

đź”§ Crosstrek - Strut Replacement

Replacing the struts means removing the complete strut assemblies and installing new ones to restore ride control and handling. On your Crosstrek, the front and rear are different setups, but the overall job is very doable with the right tools and safe lifting.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Coil springs store huge energy—only compress springs with a proper spring compressor, and keep hands/face out of the “line of fire.”
  • ⚠️ If you disconnect brake hoses/ABS wiring by mistake, you can create a brake/ABS problem—unclip carefully and don’t stretch the wires.
  • ⚠️ After strut work, a wheel alignment is required to prevent tire wear and pulling.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range)
  • Torque wrench (3/8", 10–80 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set (8mm–19mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm–19mm)
  • Allen key set (metric)
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flat trim tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Spring compressor (external, threaded-rod type) (specialty)
  • Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies - Qty: 2
  • Rear strut assemblies - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - Qty: 2
  • Rear upper strut mounts - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
  • Rear bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
  • Self-locking strut-to-knuckle nuts - Qty: 4
  • Front sway bar end links - Qty: 2 (recommended if worn)
  • Rear sway bar end links - Qty: 2 (recommended if worn)

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, leave the transmission in gear, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
  • Soak the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts with penetrating oil 15–30 minutes before disassembly.
  • Decide your parts approach: “complete quick-struts” (pre-assembled) vs reusing springs (requires spring compressor).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Answer these two quick questions (so I give the exact safest steps)

  • Are you replacing front, rear, or all four struts?
  • Are your replacements complete pre-assembled strut units (quick-struts) or bare struts (reusing the spring and top mount)?

Step 2: Lift and secure the vehicle

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the factory jack point and raise the front (or rear) of the vehicle.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper support points and lower onto them.
  • Install wheel chocks on the opposite end.
  • Remove wheels using a 19mm socket and breaker bar (1/2").

Step 3: Front strut removal (outline — I’ll finalize once you answer Step 1)

  • Unclip brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket and needle-nose pliers; don’t pull on the wires.
  • Remove the sway bar end link from the strut using wrench set (10mm–19mm) and Allen key set (metric) (the Allen holds the stud from spinning). Hold the stud; don’t strip it.
  • Mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt orientation with a paint marker.
  • Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set (8mm–19mm).
  • Support the knuckle with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so the axle/brake line isn’t stressed.
  • Under the hood, remove the upper strut mount nuts using a socket set (8mm–19mm) and lift the strut out.

Step 4: Rear strut removal (outline — I’ll finalize once you answer Step 1)

  • Access the rear upper mount nuts from inside the cargo area (trim panels vary) using a flat trim tool and socket set (8mm–19mm).
  • At the rear knuckle, remove the lower strut bolt(s) using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set (8mm–19mm).
  • Remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set (8mm–19mm), then remove the rear strut assembly.

Step 5: If using quick-struts (pre-assembled) — install the new assemblies

  • Position the new strut and hand-thread the upper nuts using a socket set (8mm–19mm).
  • Align the knuckle and install the lower bolts using a pry bar (18") and socket set (8mm–19mm).
  • Reconnect sway bar end links using a wrench set (10mm–19mm) and Allen key set (metric).
  • Reattach brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
  • Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range) and torque wrench (3/8", 10–80 ft-lbs range); Torque specs depend on front vs rear (I’ll provide exact numbers once you confirm front/rear/all four).

Step 6: If reusing springs (bare struts) — transfer spring and top mount

  • Install a spring compressor (external, threaded-rod type) (specialty) on opposite sides of the coil spring; tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the perch.
  • Remove the top nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and Allen key set (metric).
  • Transfer the top mount/bearing, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
  • Reinstall the top nut, then slowly release the spring compressor evenly.

Step 7: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower off jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Final-tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range) to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

âś… After Repair

  • Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or rubbing.
  • Re-check that brake hose and ABS wire clips are secured and not twisted.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
  • After 50–100 km, re-check lug nut torque: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$1,200 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.


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