How to Replace Front & Rear Struts on a 2016 Subaru Legacy (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes
How to Replace Front & Rear Struts on a 2016 Subaru Legacy (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes


🔧 Legacy - Strut Replacement
Replacing struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire wear. On your Legacy, each corner uses a strut assembly (strut + spring + top mount) that bolts to the body at the top and the steering knuckle (front) / rear knuckle (rear) at the bottom.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours (all four)
Assumption: stock suspension; torque specs are best-effort OEM-typical.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never loosen the center nut on top of the spring without a spring compressor; the spring is stored energy and can cause severe injury.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid points; never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Use wheel chocks and keep the car on level ground.
- ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper/hub hang by the brake hose or ABS wire; support with a bungee/zip ties.
- ⚠️ After strut replacement, you must get a 4-wheel alignment to prevent pulling and tire wear.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (20–250 Nm range)
- Socket set 10mm–21mm (1/2" drive)
- Wrench set 10mm–21mm
- Allen key set 5mm–8mm
- Pry bar (18")
- Hammer (2 lb)
- Punch set
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip tool
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Bungee cord
- Spring compressor (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assemblies (complete “quick strut”) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear strut assemblies (complete “quick strut”) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front sway bar end links - Optional (if boots torn/loose) - Qty: 2
- Rear sway bar end links - Optional (if boots torn/loose) - Qty: 2
- Strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Optional (if rusty/damaged) - Qty: 4-8
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks on the opposite end you’re lifting.
- Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- If you are NOT using complete strut assemblies, set up a spring compressor (specialty). A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring so it can be safely removed.
- Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and sway end link nuts 10–15 minutes before removal.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels
- Use a floor jack to lift the front (or rear) at the center jacking point.
- Set the car down on jack stands at the pinch welds or proper subframe points.
- Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Front struts - disconnect brackets and end link
- Turn the steering for access (left/right) by hand at the tire area.
- Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
- Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm socket and hold the stud with an Allen key (typically 5mm or 6mm).
- If the nut spins, add penetrating oil.
Step 3: Front struts - remove strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Support the knuckle/hub lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
- Mark the position of the upper bolt relative to the knuckle using a paint marker (helps keep camber close for the drive to the alignment shop).
- Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using 19mm–21mm sockets, a breaker bar, and a hammer with punch if needed.
- Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) on reassembly (each lower bolt).
Step 4: Front struts - remove the top mount nuts and strut
- Open the hood and locate the three top strut mount nuts at each strut tower.
- Remove the three nuts using a 12mm socket while holding the strut from below.
- Lower and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
- Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs) for the three top mount nuts on reassembly.
Step 5: (If not using quick struts) Transfer the spring and mount
- Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
- Remove the center top nut using a socket and hold the strut shaft with an Allen key if required.
- Move the mount, bearing, dust boot, and spring onto the new strut in the same orientation.
- Release the spring compressor slowly and evenly.
- Quick struts avoid this entire risk.
Step 6: Install the front strut assembly
- Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 12mm socket.
- Align the strut to the knuckle and insert the two lower bolts using a hammer if needed.
- Tighten lower bolts with a torque wrench: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
- Tighten the top nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect the sway end link using a 17mm socket and Allen key: Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket: Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Rear struts - access the top mount nuts
- Open the trunk and pull back the side trunk liners near the strut towers using a trim clip tool.
- Locate the two or three top mount nuts (varies by mount style) and loosen them with a 12mm socket, but do not remove completely yet.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for rear top mount nuts on reassembly.
Step 8: Rear struts - disconnect end link and remove lower bolt
- Remove the rear sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 14mm–17mm socket and hold the stud with an Allen key if it spins.
- Support the rear knuckle with the floor jack.
- Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolt using a 17mm–19mm socket and breaker bar.
- Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs) for the rear lower bolt on reassembly.
Step 9: Rear struts - remove top nuts and strut
- Hold the strut from below, then remove the top mount nuts in the trunk using a 12mm socket.
- Remove the rear strut assembly from the wheel well.
Step 10: Install the rear strut assembly
- Place the rear strut into position and hand-thread the top mount nuts using a 12mm socket.
- Install the lower bolt using a socket and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs).
- Tighten rear top nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect the rear sway end link using a socket: Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Reinstall wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the car off jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps and recheck all visible fasteners.
- Check that ABS wires and brake hoses are not twisted, stretched, or rubbing the tire.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
- After 50–100 km, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹18,000–₹45,000 (parts + labor, all four; varies by brand and rust)
DIY Cost: ₹12,000–₹32,000 (parts only, all four)
You Save: ₹6,000–₹13,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary in Panipat but often run ₹800–₹1,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4–6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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