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2016 Subaru Legacy
2016 Subaru Legacy
2.5i - Flat 4 2.5L
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How to Replace the front strut on the Subaru Legacy 2010 to 2016

How to Replace the front strut on the Subaru Legacy 2010 to 2016

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2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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How to Replace Front & Rear Struts on a 2016 Subaru Legacy (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes

How to Replace Front & Rear Struts on a 2016 Subaru Legacy (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes

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🔧 Legacy - Strut Replacement

Replacing struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire wear. On your Legacy, each corner uses a strut assembly (strut + spring + top mount) that bolts to the body at the top and the steering knuckle (front) / rear knuckle (rear) at the bottom.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours (all four)

Assumption: stock suspension; torque specs are best-effort OEM-typical.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never loosen the center nut on top of the spring without a spring compressor; the spring is stored energy and can cause severe injury.
  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid points; never work under a car supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Use wheel chocks and keep the car on level ground.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper/hub hang by the brake hose or ABS wire; support with a bungee/zip ties.
  • ⚠️ After strut replacement, you must get a 4-wheel alignment to prevent pulling and tire wear.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (20–250 Nm range)
  • Socket set 10mm–21mm (1/2" drive)
  • Wrench set 10mm–21mm
  • Allen key set 5mm–8mm
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Hammer (2 lb)
  • Punch set
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Bungee cord
  • Spring compressor (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies (complete “quick strut”) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear strut assemblies (complete “quick strut”) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front sway bar end links - Optional (if boots torn/loose) - Qty: 2
  • Rear sway bar end links - Optional (if boots torn/loose) - Qty: 2
  • Strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Optional (if rusty/damaged) - Qty: 4-8
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks on the opposite end you’re lifting.
  • Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • If you are NOT using complete strut assemblies, set up a spring compressor (specialty). A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring so it can be safely removed.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and sway end link nuts 10–15 minutes before removal.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front (or rear) at the center jacking point.
  • Set the car down on jack stands at the pinch welds or proper subframe points.
  • Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Front struts - disconnect brackets and end link

  • Turn the steering for access (left/right) by hand at the tire area.
  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
  • Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm socket and hold the stud with an Allen key (typically 5mm or 6mm).
  • If the nut spins, add penetrating oil.

Step 3: Front struts - remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the knuckle/hub lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
  • Mark the position of the upper bolt relative to the knuckle using a paint marker (helps keep camber close for the drive to the alignment shop).
  • Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using 19mm–21mm sockets, a breaker bar, and a hammer with punch if needed.
  • Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) on reassembly (each lower bolt).

Step 4: Front struts - remove the top mount nuts and strut

  • Open the hood and locate the three top strut mount nuts at each strut tower.
  • Remove the three nuts using a 12mm socket while holding the strut from below.
  • Lower and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
  • Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs) for the three top mount nuts on reassembly.

Step 5: (If not using quick struts) Transfer the spring and mount

  • Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
  • Remove the center top nut using a socket and hold the strut shaft with an Allen key if required.
  • Move the mount, bearing, dust boot, and spring onto the new strut in the same orientation.
  • Release the spring compressor slowly and evenly.
  • Quick struts avoid this entire risk.

Step 6: Install the front strut assembly

  • Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 12mm socket.
  • Align the strut to the knuckle and insert the two lower bolts using a hammer if needed.
  • Tighten lower bolts with a torque wrench: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
  • Tighten the top nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
  • Reconnect the sway end link using a 17mm socket and Allen key: Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket: Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Rear struts - access the top mount nuts

  • Open the trunk and pull back the side trunk liners near the strut towers using a trim clip tool.
  • Locate the two or three top mount nuts (varies by mount style) and loosen them with a 12mm socket, but do not remove completely yet.
  • Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for rear top mount nuts on reassembly.

Step 8: Rear struts - disconnect end link and remove lower bolt

  • Remove the rear sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 14mm–17mm socket and hold the stud with an Allen key if it spins.
  • Support the rear knuckle with the floor jack.
  • Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolt using a 17mm–19mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs) for the rear lower bolt on reassembly.

Step 9: Rear struts - remove top nuts and strut

  • Hold the strut from below, then remove the top mount nuts in the trunk using a 12mm socket.
  • Remove the rear strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 10: Install the rear strut assembly

  • Place the rear strut into position and hand-thread the top mount nuts using a 12mm socket.
  • Install the lower bolt using a socket and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs).
  • Tighten rear top nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
  • Reconnect the rear sway end link using a socket: Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

  • Reinstall wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the car off jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps and recheck all visible fasteners.
  • Check that ABS wires and brake hoses are not twisted, stretched, or rubbing the tire.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
  • After 50–100 km, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000–₹45,000 (parts + labor, all four; varies by brand and rust)

DIY Cost: ₹12,000–₹32,000 (parts only, all four)

You Save: ₹6,000–₹13,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary in Panipat but often run ₹800–₹1,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4–6 hours.


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