🔧 Forester - Strut Replacement

Replacing the struts restores ride control, braking stability, and steering feel. On your Forester, each corner uses a strut assembly, so you’ll remove the old unit and install a new strut (or complete “quick strut”).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

Assumption: Torque specs listed are typical for this Forester; verify with a Subaru service manual if available.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands on solid points.
• ⚠️ Coil springs store serious energy; only use a spring compressor (specialty) correctly, or use complete “quick struts” to avoid spring transfer.
• ⚠️ Keep the ABS wire and brake hose supported; do not let the knuckle hang by them.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement you need a 4-wheel alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear and pulling.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 19mm lug socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–250 Nm range)
• Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm)
• Wrench set (12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
• Hex key set (5mm, 6mm)
• Pry bar (18–24")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mounts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear upper strut mounts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
• Rear bump stops and dust boots - Qty: 2
• New self-locking nuts/bolts kit (strut hardware) - Qty: 1 kit

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Use wheel chocks on the wheels staying on the ground.
• Crack loose the lug nuts with a 19mm lug socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray the lower strut bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the camber bolt at the front (this helps you drive to the alignment shop).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift one end of the vehicle using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm lug socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets from the strut (front or rear)

• Remove the brake hose bracket bolt using a 12mm socket.
• Remove the ABS wire bracket bolt(s) using a 10mm socket.
• Do not pull on the ABS wire.

Step 3: Remove the sway bar end link from the strut (if attached to strut)

• Remove the end link nut using a 14mm wrench or 14mm socket.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a 5mm hex key while turning the nut.

Step 4: Support the knuckle and remove the lower strut bolts

• Place the floor jack lightly under the control arm/knuckle area to support it.
• Remove the two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• At the front, keep track of the camber bolt orientation (the marked bolt).

Step 5: Remove the upper strut mount nuts and take the strut out

• Open the hood (front) or access the rear upper mounts from inside the cargo area (rear) using a trim clip removal tool and ratchet.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket (varies by mount).
• Pull the strut assembly out. Use a pry bar gently if it’s stuck.

Step 6: If you are NOT using complete “quick struts,” transfer the spring (advanced)

• Install a spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring. Tighten each side evenly until the spring is loose in the perch.
• Remove the center shaft nut using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket while holding the shaft with a 6mm hex key (tooling varies by strut brand).
• Transfer the mount/bearing, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same order.
• Install the center shaft nut and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Slowly release the spring compressor, alternating sides evenly, and confirm the spring ends seat correctly in the perches.

Step 7: Install the new strut into the body

• Guide the strut into place and start the upper mount nuts by hand.
• Snug the upper nuts using a ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Attach the strut to the knuckle/control arm

• Line up the lower strut holes to the knuckle using the floor jack to adjust height.
• Install the two lower bolts/nuts and tighten using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Final-tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• For the front camber bolt, align to your paint marks before final torque.

Step 9: Reconnect the sway bar end link, brake hose bracket, and ABS wire bracket

• Install the sway bar end link nut using a 14mm socket and hold the stud with a 5mm hex key if needed.
• Final-tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt using a 12mm socket: Torque to 33 Nm (24 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the ABS wire bracket bolt(s) using a 10mm socket: Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Install the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat for the other corners

• Repeat the same process for the other front side, then the rear (or vice-versa).
• Replace struts in pairs per axle.

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✅ After Repair

• Double-check every fastener you touched with a torque wrench.
• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm the brake hose and ABS wire are not stretched or rubbing.
• Test drive slowly over a smooth road first. Listen for clunks (often a loose end link or top nut).
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 50–100 miles using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts only)

You Save: $750-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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