🔧 Gladiator - Shock Absorber Replacement

Replacing worn shocks restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability. Your Gladiator uses separate shocks at each corner; the job is straightforward if you support the axle correctly so it doesn’t drop suddenly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the wheels before lifting.
• ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Support the axle with a floor jack before removing any shock bolts so the axle can’t drop.
• ⚠️ If bolts are rusty, use penetrating oil and patience—don’t force and snap hardware.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for shock replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (30-200 ft-lb range)
• 18mm socket
• 16mm socket
• 18mm wrench
• 16mm wrench
• Pry bar
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Shock mounting hardware kit - Optional but recommended - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels on the end you are not lifting.
• Break the lug nuts loose (don’t remove them yet) using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Breaker bar = long handle for extra leverage.
• Spray shock bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 5–10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front (if replacing front shocks)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front by the axle.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails and lower onto stands.
• Keep the axle lightly supported with the floor jack.
• Remove the front wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the front shock lower bolt

• Locate the lower shock mount at the front axle.
• Use an 18mm socket with a ratchet and an 18mm wrench to remove the lower bolt/nut.
• If the bolt is tight, use a breaker bar and reapply penetrating oil.

Step 3: Remove the front shock upper nuts

• At the top of the shock (inside the upper tower), remove the upper mounting nuts using a 16mm socket and ratchet.
• Pull the shock down and out. Use a pry bar gently if it’s stuck.

Step 4: Install the new front shock

• Slide the new shock into the upper mount and start the upper nuts by hand.
• Align the lower shock eye with the axle bracket by raising/lowering the axle slightly using the floor jack.
• Install the lower bolt/nut by hand first, then snug with an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.
• Tighten upper nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 23 Nm (17 ft-lb).
• Tighten lower bolt with a torque wrench: Torque to 56 Nm (41 ft-lb).
• Tip: Start all fasteners before torquing.

Step 5: Lift and support the rear (if replacing rear shocks)

• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear by the axle.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame and lower onto stands.
• Keep the rear axle lightly supported with the floor jack.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 6: Remove the rear shock lower bolt

• Locate the lower rear shock mount at the rear axle.
• Use an 18mm socket with a ratchet and an 18mm wrench to remove the lower bolt/nut.

Step 7: Remove the rear shock upper bolt

• Locate the upper rear shock mount at the frame.
• Use a 16mm socket and ratchet (and a 16mm wrench if needed) to remove the upper bolt.
• Remove the shock.

Step 8: Install the new rear shock

• Install the upper bolt by hand first, then snug with a 16mm socket.
• Align the lower mount by raising/lowering the axle slightly using the floor jack, then install the lower bolt/nut.
• Tighten upper bolt with a torque wrench: Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lb).
• Tighten lower bolt with a torque wrench: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lb).
• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the bolt shanks if you live in a rust-prone area.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

• Reinstall wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Lower the truck and final-tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lb).
• Tighten in a star pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and recheck torque if anything sounds off.
• Recheck for any loose hardware after 25–50 miles.
• If the ride height or suspension feels uneven, inspect for other worn parts (sway bar links, track bar, control arm bushings).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.