How to Replace Front & Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2018 Mazda MX-5 Miata (ND)
Step-by-step coilover removal/install guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes
How to Replace Front & Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2018 Mazda MX-5 Miata (ND)
Step-by-step coilover removal/install guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes


🔧 MX-5 Miata - Shock Absorber Replacement
On your MX-5 Miata, the shocks are part of a coilover assembly (shock + spring). Replacing them restores ride control and can fix bouncing, clunking, or uneven tire wear. Plan for careful spring handling and an alignment afterward.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Coil springs are stored energy—use a quality spring compressor and keep hands/face out of the spring’s path.
- ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands at the pinch welds; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Work on one corner at a time and keep the opposite wheels chocked.
- ⚠️ If you separate the spring from the shock, mark top-hat orientation before disassembly.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 3/8" (10–80 Nm range)
- Torque wrench 1/2" (40–200 Nm range)
- Socket set 8–21mm (3/8" and 1/2" drive)
- Wrench set 10–21mm
- Allen key set (metric)
- Pry bar 18"
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip tool
- Spring compressor (external, threaded-rod type) (specialty)
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front shock absorber/strut (coilover shock) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorber (coilover shock) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front upper strut mount/bearing (optional but recommended if noisy) - Qty: 2
- Rear upper shock mount (optional but recommended if cracked/noisy) - Qty: 2
- New self-locking nuts/bolts for shock mounts (recommended) - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the wheels staying on the ground.
- Crack the lug nuts loose with a breaker bar before lifting the car.
- Spray penetrating oil on the lower shock bolts and sway bar end link nuts 10–15 minutes before removal.
- If you’ll reuse springs/top mounts: prepare your spring compressor (it clamps the spring so it can’t expand).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the car
- Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn.
- Lift the front (or rear) with a floor jack and set it on jack stands.
- Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket.
- When reinstalling wheels later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 2: (Front) Disconnect items attached to the front shock
- Support the lower control arm with the floor jack so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly.
- Remove the sway bar end link nut from the shock bracket using a wrench set and Allen key set to hold the stud if it spins.
- Reinstall spec: Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
- Remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the shock using a 10mm socket.
- Reinstall spec: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Tip: Take a quick photo of routing.
Step 3: (Front) Remove the front shock assembly
- At the lower mount, remove the shock-to-lower-arm bolt/nut using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
- Reinstall spec: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
- Open the hood and locate the top shock mount nuts.
- Remove the top mount nuts using a 14mm socket while holding the assembly from below.
- Reinstall spec: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
- Remove the shock assembly from the wheel well.
Step 4: (Rear) Access the rear upper shock mounts
- Open the trunk and remove the necessary trim panels using a trim clip tool and 10mm socket.
- Locate the rear upper shock mount nuts.
- Tip: Keep clips in a small container.
Step 5: (Rear) Remove the rear shock assembly
- Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack.
- Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
- Reinstall spec: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
- From inside the trunk, remove the upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Reinstall spec: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
- Remove the shock assembly from the wheel well.
Step 6: Swap springs onto the new shocks (only if not using complete pre-assembled units)
- Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly using a wrench set until the spring is loose in the top hat.
- Mark top-hat orientation with a paint marker so it goes back the same way.
- Remove the center shaft nut using a socket set 8–21mm and Allen key set to hold the shaft if needed.
- Transfer the spring, isolators, and top mount to the new shock.
- Install the center nut and tighten with a torque wrench to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
- Slowly loosen the spring compressor using a wrench set until the spring seats fully.
- Tip: If anything looks crooked, recompress and reseat.
Step 7: Reinstall the new shock assemblies
- Position the assembly and start the upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
- Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
- Tighten all fasteners to their listed torque specs using a torque wrench.
- Reattach sway bar end links and any brackets using the correct socket set and wrench set, then torque them.
Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
- Lower the car off jack stands using a floor jack.
- Final-tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm straight tracking.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (recommended anytime shocks/coilovers are removed).
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
- If you installed new shocks with reused mounts, expect minor settling after a few drives.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $450-$1,400 (parts only)
You Save: $750-$800 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















