🔧 Highlander - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

This repair replaces the front lower control arms on your Highlander. The lower control arm holds the bottom of the front wheel assembly in position and contains rubber bushings plus a ball joint that can wear out and cause clunks, wandering, uneven tire wear, or failed alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Highlander with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle supported by a jack alone.
• ⚠️ The control arm supports suspension load. Keep hands clear when separating the ball joint and moving the knuckle.
• ⚠️ Replace control arms in pairs if one side is worn, because suspension geometry and bushing stiffness should match side-to-side.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.
• ⚠️ Do not fully tighten the control arm bushing bolts while the suspension is hanging. Final-tighten them at normal ride height to prevent bushing damage.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Dead blow hammer 2-lb
• Needle nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
• Front lower ball joint castle nut - Qty: 2
• Front lower ball joint cotter pin - Qty: 2
• Front control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: As needed
• Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Highlander on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on the control arm bolts, ball joint nut, and stabilizer link nuts before starting.
• A ball joint separator is a tool that presses the tapered ball joint stud loose without hammering directly on the steering knuckle.
• Take photos before disassembly. They help you compare bolt direction and part position during reassembly.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts one turn while the tires are still on the ground.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loose first, lift second.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Highlander at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable before working underneath.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them aside.

Step 4: Mark the Control Arm Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the current position of the control arm mounting bolts and brackets.
• These marks are only a starting reference. Your Highlander still needs a professional alignment afterward.

Step 5: Disconnect the Stabilizer Link from the Control Arm

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the stabilizer link nut from the control arm.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with the wrench while turning the nut with the socket.
• Move the stabilizer link out of the control arm.
• During installation, tighten the stabilizer link nut to Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Remove the Ball Joint Cotter Pin and Nut

• Use needle nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint stud.
• Use a 19mm socket or 19mm wrench to remove the lower ball joint castle nut.
• A castle nut has slots in the top so a cotter pin can lock it in place.

Step 7: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

• Install the ball joint separator tool (specialty) between the lower ball joint and the steering knuckle.
• Tighten the separator until the ball joint pops free.
• Use a dead blow hammer 2-lb only for light tapping if needed.
• Do not strike the ball joint threads directly.
• Protect the rubber boot.

Step 8: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the lower area of the steering knuckle for light support only.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• This prevents pulling on the axle, brake hose, and ABS wiring.

Step 9: Remove the Control Arm Mounting Bolts

• Use a 22mm socket and 22mm wrench to remove the rear control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the front control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch to gently help slide the control arm out of the subframe pockets.
• Note bolt direction before removal so the new arm goes back the same way.

Step 10: Remove the Old Control Arm

• Use the pry bar 18-inch to carefully guide the old control arm out.
• Compare the old and new control arm assemblies side-by-side.
• Make sure the ball joint, bushing positions, and mounting points match.

Step 11: Install the New Control Arm

• Position the new control arm into the subframe mounting pockets by hand.
• Install the front and rear mounting bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use a 21mm socket, 22mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 22mm wrench to snug the mounting bolts only.
• Do not final-tighten these bolts yet.

Step 12: Reconnect the Ball Joint

• Guide the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new castle nut.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the ball joint castle nut to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Use needle nose pliers to install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud.
• If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it lines up. Do not loosen it to align the hole.

Step 13: Reconnect the Stabilizer Link

• Insert the stabilizer link stud into the new control arm.
• Use a 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the nut to Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Final-Tighten the Control Arm at Ride Height

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the control arm to raise the suspension until the control arm sits near normal driving position.
• Use a 21mm socket, 22mm socket, 21mm wrench, 22mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to final-tighten the control arm bolts.
• Tighten the front control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 137 Nm (101 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the rear control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 137 Nm (101 ft-lbs).
• Ride-height tightening saves bushings.

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite front control arm using the same tools.
• Replace both front lower control arms as a pair for best handling and tire wear.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place the wheels back onto the hubs.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Highlander to the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for rubbing, popping, or binding.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Check for clunks, steering pull, or vibration.
• ✅ Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately. Replacing lower control arms changes suspension alignment.
• ✅ After 25-50 miles, recheck the visible fasteners and lug nut torque.
• ✅ If the ABS light, traction light, or steering warning light appears, inspect the wheel speed sensor wiring near the repair area.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $280-$650 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $400-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours plus alignment time.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.