🔧 Altima - Control Arm Replacement

You can replace the control arms at home with basic tools, but it does involve working under the car and dealing with suspension bolts that can be tight and rusty. The control arm keeps your wheel positioned correctly, and worn bushings or ball joints can cause clunks, tire wear, or wandering steering.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3–4 hours for both front lower arms

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the Altima with jack stands, never rely only on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; rust and debris often fall when loosening suspension bolts.
• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface with the transmission in Park and parking brake fully applied.
• ⚠️ Do not place any part of your body under the car unless it is solidly supported.
• ⚠️ After any suspension work, a professional wheel alignment is required to avoid tire wear and poor handling.
• Battery disconnection is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2–4)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ Breaker bar 1/2" drive (600mm length)
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 3/8" drive (5–80 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Torque wrench 1/2" drive (30–200 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Socket set metric (8mm–22mm)
• 🛠️ Wrench set metric (10mm–22mm)
• 🛠️ 17mm socket
• 🛠️ 19mm socket
• 🛠️ 21mm socket
• 🛠️ Pry bar (450–600mm)
• 🛠️ Ball joint separator fork (specialty)
• 🛠️ Hammer (1–2 lb)
• 🛠️ Needle nose pliers
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver medium
• 🛠️ Torque-angle gauge (specialty, optional)
• 🛠️ Penetrating oil spray
• 🛠️ Wire brush small
• 🛠️ Paint marker or chalk
• 🛠️ Work gloves
• 🛠️ Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Front lower control arm assembly, left - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Front lower control arm assembly, right - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Front lower control arm mounting bolt kit - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Front lower ball joint nut - Qty: 2
• 🔩 Front stabilizer link nut (if damaged during removal) - Qty: 2
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 tube
• 🔩 Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Altima on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly with the car still on the ground.
• Plan to replace both front lower control arms as a pair for even wear.
• Read through all steps once before starting so you understand the sequence.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front

• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet to crack loose (¼ turn) each front wheel lug nut while the Altima is still on the ground.
• Position the floor jack under the front center jacking point (under the front subframe crossmember) and raise the front of the car.
• Place jack stands under the left and right front pinch welds or frame rails, then slowly lower the Altima onto the stands.
• Give the car a firm push to confirm it is stable on the stands.

Step 2: Remove Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the front wheel lug nuts completely.
• Remove both front wheels and set them aside.
• Lay wheels under car as backup safety.

Step 3: Identify the Control Arm and Fasteners

• The front lower control arm is the large, roughly triangular arm running from the body (two inner bushings) to the steering knuckle (ball joint) at the wheel.
• Use a work light if needed to clearly see the front and rear pivot bolts and the ball joint connection.
• Use the paint marker to mark the outline of the control arm bushings on the subframe to help with reinstallation position.

Step 4: Soak Bolts with Penetrating Oil

• Spray penetrating oil generously on the front and rear control arm bolts and the ball joint stud/nut.
• Also spray the stabilizer link nut if it passes through the control arm on your Altima.
• Let it soak for at least 10–15 minutes while you set up tools.

Step 5: Disconnect the Stabilizer (If Attached to Arm)

• If your control arm has the sway bar (stabilizer bar) link going through it, locate the link nut.
• Use the 17mm or 19mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the nut.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a wrench or internal hex/torx (if provided) while turning the nut.
• Remove the nut and push the stabilizer link free from the control arm.

Step 6: Loosen the Ball Joint Nut

• Use the wire brush to clean the exposed threads on the ball joint stud.
• Use the 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the ball joint nut, but do not remove it completely yet; leave it on a few threads.
• Leaving nut on prevents sudden release.

Step 7: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

• Position the ball joint separator fork between the control arm ball joint and the steering knuckle.
• Use the hammer to drive the fork in until the joint pops free from the knuckle.
• If you don’t have a fork, you can tap the side of the knuckle sharply with the hammer while prying down on the control arm with a pry bar.
• Once the taper is released, support the control arm and remove the ball joint nut completely using the 21mm socket.

Step 8: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Use a piece of wire or a bungee (if available) to support the steering knuckle to the strut spring so it does not pull on the CV axle.
• Do not let the knuckle hang by the axle.

Step 9: Remove the Rear Control Arm Bolt

• Locate the rear control arm bushing bolt where the arm attaches to the subframe.
• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar on the bolt head and a 19mm wrench on the nut (if present) to loosen.
• Once cracked loose, switch to a 1/2" ratchet to remove the bolt fully and set it aside.

Step 10: Remove the Front Control Arm Bolt

• Locate the front control arm bushing bolt.
• Use the 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen this bolt as well.
• Then use the 1/2" ratchet to remove the bolt and remove any nut if used.
• Note the orientation of any washers or spacers.

Step 11: Remove the Old Control Arm

• Pull the control arm down and out from the subframe and knuckle area; you may need to wiggle it and use the pry bar to free tight bushings.
• Compare the old arm to the new arm to ensure shape, length, and bushing positions match.

Step 12: Install the New Control Arm – Positioning

• Slide the new control arm into place, first aligning the rear bushing mount with the subframe hole.
• Install the rear bolt by hand, turning a few threads only so the arm can still move.
• Align the front bushing mount and install the front bolt by hand.
• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound on bolt threads if desired (do not overdo it).

Step 13: Attach the Ball Joint to the Steering Knuckle

• Use the floor jack under the outer part of the control arm to gently raise it until the ball joint stud goes back into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new ball joint nut by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use the 21mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to snug the nut.
• Final torque: use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the ball joint nut to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reconnect the Stabilizer Link (If Removed)

• Insert the stabilizer link stud back through the control arm.
• Install the link nut by hand, then use the 17mm or 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to tighten.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with a wrench or internal hex while tightening the nut.
• Torque the stabilizer link nut to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Pre-tighten Control Arm Pivot Bolts at Normal Ride Height

• Suspension bushings must be tightened at “ride height” so they are not twisted when the car sits on the ground.
• Use the floor jack to raise the control arm near the ball joint until the hub height looks close to normal ride height (roughly where it would sit with the wheel installed on the ground).
• While holding that position, use the 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the front and rear control arm bolts.
• Tighten the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 3–15 for the opposite front control arm.
• Do one side at a time to compare.

Step 17: Reinstall Wheels

• Install each front wheel onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Use the 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern while the car is still on stands.

Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Final Torque

• Use the floor jack to raise the Altima slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the car completely to the ground.
• Use the 19mm socket and torque wrench to torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock while stationary to check for any unusual noises.
• Drive slowly in a safe area, listening for clunks or pops over small bumps and while turning.
• Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible; control arm replacement changes alignment angles.
• After a few short drives, recheck the lug nut torque and inspect control arm bolts for any signs of loosening.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650–$950 (parts + labor) for both front control arms

DIY Cost: $220–$380 (parts only)

You Save: $430–$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2–3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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