🔧 Altima - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

Replacing the front lower control arms on your Altima fixes worn bushings or ball joints that can cause clunks, loose steering, pulling, and uneven tire wear. The lower control arm is the main suspension link between the front subframe and the steering knuckle.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never crawl under your Altima while it is supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Keep hands away from pinch points when separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
• ⚠️ The ball joint is the pivot joint at the outer end of the control arm. It may pop loose suddenly.
• ⚠️ Final tightening of the control arm bushing bolts must be done with the suspension loaded at normal ride height.
• ⚠️ Replace control arms in pairs when possible for even handling and tire wear.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 21mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 21mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• 18-inch pry bar
• 2-lb hammer
• Rubber mallet
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil spray

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Left: Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm assembly - Right: Qty: 1
• Ball joint cotter pins - Qty: 2
• Control arm mounting hardware - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Altima on flat, solid ground.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower ball joint nut and control arm mounting bolts.
• Work on one side at a time so the other side can be used as a visual reference.
• Take photos before removing parts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen while the tire is grounded.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Altima from the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the approved front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Lightly shake the body by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel.
• Place the wheel flat under the side of the vehicle as a backup safety cushion.

Step 4: Mark the Current Control Arm Position

• Use a paint marker to mark around the front and rear control arm mounting points.
• These marks help position the new arm close to the original location.
• This does not replace alignment.

Step 5: Move the Splash Shield if It Blocks Access

• If the lower splash shield blocks the rear control arm bolt, use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove its fasteners.
• Move the shield aside just enough to reach the mounting bolts.

Step 6: Remove the Ball Joint Cotter Pin

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut.
• A cotter pin is a small bent safety pin that keeps the nut from loosening.
• Discard the old cotter pin.

Step 7: Loosen the Lower Ball Joint Nut

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to loosen the lower ball joint nut.
• Leave the nut threaded on a few turns while separating the joint.
• This keeps the joint from dropping suddenly.

Step 8: Separate the Ball Joint from the Knuckle

• Use a ball joint separator between the ball joint and steering knuckle.
• Use a 2-lb hammer to tap the separator until the joint pops loose.
• The steering knuckle is the metal upright that the wheel hub and brake parts attach to.
• Once loose, use the 19mm socket to remove the nut completely.
• Do not strike the threaded ball joint stud directly.

Step 9: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Remove the bolt by hand once it is loose.
• Note the bolt direction for reassembly.

Step 10: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the rear control arm mounting bolt and nut.
• Support the control arm with one hand as the last bolt comes out.
• Use an 18-inch pry bar gently if the arm is stuck in the subframe pocket.

Step 11: Remove the Old Control Arm

• Pull the old control arm out of the subframe brackets by hand.
• Use a rubber mallet to tap it free if needed.
• Compare the old arm with the new arm before installation.
• Confirm the ball joint, bushings, and mounting holes match.

Step 12: Install the New Control Arm

• Position the new control arm into the subframe brackets.
• Use an 18-inch pry bar only for gentle alignment.
• Install the front and rear mounting bolts by hand.
• Thread the nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.

Step 13: Connect the Lower Ball Joint

• Guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the lower ball joint nut by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the ball joint nut to Torque to 58 Nm (43 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it does.
• Use needle-nose pliers to install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over.

Step 14: Load the Suspension

• Use the floor jack under the outer control arm area to raise the suspension near normal ride height.
• Normal ride height means the suspension sits about where it does when the car is on the ground.
• This prevents the rubber bushings from being tightened in a twisted position.

Step 15: Torque the Control Arm Mounting Bolts

• Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the front control arm bolt to Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).
• Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the rear control arm bolt to Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).
• Lower and remove the floor jack from under the control arm.

Step 16: Reinstall the Splash Shield

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall any splash shield fasteners removed earlier.
• Make sure the shield does not touch the tire, axle, or control arm.

Step 17: Reinstall the Wheel

• Place the wheel back onto the hub by hand.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Altima fully to the ground.
• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
• Tighten in a star pattern so the wheel seats evenly.

Step 19: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat these steps on the opposite front lower control arm.
• Use the same tools and torque specs.
• Keep left-side and right-side parts on their correct sides.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel left and right while parked. Listen for clunks or rubbing.
• ✅ Take a short, slow test drive first.
• ✅ Schedule a wheel alignment immediately after the repair.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the car pulls, drive only as needed to reach the alignment shop.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor, alignment may be extra)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $350-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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