🔧 Control Arms - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

Assumption: this is for the front lower control arms, and they should be replaced in pairs. On your Explorer, the control arms locate the front suspension and keep the wheel aligned, so worn bushings or ball joints can cause clunks, uneven tire wear, and steering pull.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground only and support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on the floor jack alone.
• The front suspension is under spring load. Keep hands clear when separating the ball joint and moving the knuckle.
• Use a spring compressor only if you must remove the strut from the knuckle for clearance.
• Mark alignment changes before removal; this repair will usually require a wheel alignment afterward.
• Do not fully tighten any rubber-bushed control arm bolts with the suspension hanging. Final-torque them at ride height.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar
• Ratchet set
• Metric socket set
• Metric wrench set
• Torque wrench
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Broom handle or pry bar
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm bolts/nuts kit - Qty: 1
• Alignment hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the control arm bolts, ball joint nut, and knuckle pinch points if rust is present.
• Plan for a professional wheel alignment after installation.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of the Explorer at the approved lift points.
• Support it with jack stands under the frame or subframe.
• Remove the front wheel with the lug wrench.

Step 2: Mark the alignment position

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the control arm bolts and camber-related hardware.
• This helps the alignment shop get close later.

Step 3: Disconnect the lower ball joint from the knuckle

• Use the correct metric socket and metric wrench to remove the lower ball joint nut.
• Use a ball joint separator tool to release the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
• Support the knuckle so the brake hose and axle are not pulled tight.

Step 4: Remove the control arm mounting bolts

• Use the correct metric socket and breaker bar to remove the front and rear control arm bolts.
• If the bolts are stuck, add more penetrating oil and work them gently back and forth.
• Remove the control arm from the vehicle.

Step 5: Install the new control arm

• Position the new control arm in place by hand.
• Install the mounting bolts finger-tight first using a ratchet.
• Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle and install the nut finger-tight.

Step 6: Final-tighten at ride height

• Put the wheel back on temporarily, lower the vehicle until the suspension is sitting at normal ride height, or raise the arm with a jack under the knuckle to simulate ride height.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the control arm pivot bolts to factory specification.
• Tighten the ball joint nut to factory specification.
• Never final-tighten rubber bushings with the suspension hanging.

Step 7: Reassemble the wheel end

• Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts with a lug wrench.
• Lower the Explorer fully to the ground and torque the lug nuts with a torque wrench to factory specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the vehicle and listen for clunks or rubbing noises.
• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and check for binding.
• Inspect the new control arms and fasteners for proper seating.
• Schedule a front-end alignment before driving long distances.
• After a short test drive, recheck for loose hardware and abnormal tire wear.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.