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2011 Nissan Altima
2007 - 2013 Nissan Altima
Sedan
Compatible with more variants.
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How to Replace Lower Control Arm 2007-13 Nissan Altima

How to Replace Lower Control Arm 2007-13 Nissan Altima

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace Front Lower Control Arms on a 2007-2013 Nissan Altima (Step-by-Step) (Body: Sedan)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, and alignment recommendations for a successful DIY repair

How to Replace Front Lower Control Arms on a 2007-2013 Nissan Altima (Step-by-Step) (Body: Sedan)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, and alignment recommendations for a successful DIY repair for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

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đź”§ Altima - Control Arm Replacement

On your Altima, “control arm” usually means the front lower control arm (it locates the front wheel and contains the bushings and the ball joint). There are a couple of different arms/links on the car, so I need one quick detail to give you the exact, trim-correct steps and torque specs.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours (both sides)

Quick questions (answer these 2 and I’ll tailor the steps):

  • 🔎 Are you replacing the front lower control arm (left/right), or a rear suspension arm/link?
  • 🔎 Are you replacing the entire control arm assembly (with ball joint), or just bushings/ball joint?

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the suspension.
  • ⚠️ Your Altima is a hybrid: avoid touching orange high-voltage cables (you won’t need to disconnect HV for control arms, but be aware).
  • ⚠️ If you separate a ball joint, the knuckle can move suddenly—support the knuckle/hub so it doesn’t yank the axle or brake hose.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Metric socket set 10mm-22mm
  • Metric wrench set 10mm-22mm
  • Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
  • Ball joint separator (specialty)
  • Pry bar
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Hammer (16 oz)
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front lower control arm - Left or Right (as needed) - Qty: 1
  • Front lower control arm - Opposite side (recommended to replace in pairs) - Qty: 1
  • Ball joint cotter pin - Qty: 1 (or 2 if doing both sides)
  • Control arm mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1 (recommended)

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Crack the front lug nuts loose with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the control arm-to-subframe bolts and the ball joint nut area.
  • Important: Control arm bushings must be tightened at ride height (vehicle sitting at normal height). Tightening while the suspension hangs can tear bushings early.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which “control arm” you’re replacing

  • Use a flashlight to look behind the front wheel.
  • The front lower control arm is the larger arm that runs from the subframe to the steering knuckle (the ball joint end).
  • Mark the arm and bolt locations with a paint marker and take a photo for reference.

Step 2: Lift and secure the front of the car

  • Lift at the proper front jacking point using a floor jack.
  • Set the car down onto jack stands and give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the wheel

  • Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet, then remove the wheel.

Step 4: Pause here so I can give the exact procedure + torque specs

  • Reply with: Front lower / Rear and Left / Right, and whether you’re replacing the whole arm or bushings/ball joint.
  • Once you confirm, I’ll provide the full removal/installation sequence and the correct Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values for your Altima.

âś… After Repair

  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (control arm changes affect alignment).
  • Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps and confirm straight tracking.
  • Re-check lug nut torque after a short drive.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$1,100 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only, per side, varies by brand)

You Save: $300-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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Guide for Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly replace for these Nissan vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2013 Nissan Altima--Sedan
2013 Nissan Altima--Coupe
2012 Nissan Altima--Sedan
2012 Nissan Altima--Coupe
2011 Nissan Altima--Sedan
2011 Nissan Altima--Coupe
2010 Nissan Altima--Sedan
2010 Nissan Altima--Coupe
2009 Nissan Altima--Sedan
2009 Nissan Altima--Coupe
2008 Nissan Altima--Sedan
2008 Nissan Altima--Coupe
2007 Nissan Altima--Sedan
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