🔧 Control Arms - Replacement

Assumption: This covers the front lower control arms on both sides of your Tacoma.

The front control arms hold the wheel in the correct position and let the suspension move smoothly. If the bushings or ball joints are worn, you may get clunks, uneven tire wear, or pulling while driving.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and support the truck securely with jack stands.
• Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• The front suspension must be held at normal ride height when final-torquing rubber bushing bolts.
• Use caution around the coil spring and steering knuckle.
• An alignment is required after this repair.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Ratchet
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 24mm socket
• Torque-angle gauge
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Prick punch or paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Pry bar
• Hammer
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly, left - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm assembly, right - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm cam bolt kit - Qty: 1 set
• Front lower ball joint nuts - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front wheel alignment - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts before lifting the truck.
• Mark the location of the cam bolts before removal. This helps the alignment shop get closer on setup.
• Spray fasteners early for easier removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front end

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the Tacoma by the frame.
• Set the frame securely on jack stands.
• Remove both front wheels with a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove parts blocking the lower control arm

• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the sway bar end link from the lower control arm, if it blocks access.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove any bracket or splash shield fasteners in the way.

Step 3: Disconnect the lower ball joint

• Use a 21mm socket or 22mm socket to remove the lower ball joint nut.
• Use a ball joint separator (specialty) to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
• Leave the nut threaded on a few turns while breaking it loose.

Step 4: Remove the control arm cam bolts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove the front and rear pivot bolts.
• Use a prick punch or paint marker to note the cam washer position before removal.
• Remove the control arm from the frame.

Step 5: Install the new control arm

• Position the new control arm in the frame mounts.
• Install the cam bolts by hand first with a ratchet and 21mm socket.
• Install the lower ball joint into the steering knuckle and start the new nut by hand.

Step 6: Snug fasteners, then set ride height

• Snug the pivot bolts and ball joint nut with a torque wrench, but do not fully tighten the pivot bolts yet.
• Use the floor jack to raise the lower control arm until the suspension is at normal ride height.
• This keeps the bushings from twisting when the truck is back on the ground.

Step 7: Torque all fasteners

• Torque the lower control arm pivot bolts to 118 Nm (87 ft-lbs).
• Torque the lower ball joint nut to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Torque the sway bar end link nut to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) if removed.
• Final-torque all pivot bolts with the suspension at ride height.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
• Lower the Tacoma to the ground.
• Torque the lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) with a torque wrench and 21mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Check that all bolts are tight and nothing is rubbing.
• Start the truck and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement.
• Test-drive slowly and listen for clunks or pulling.
• Schedule a professional wheel alignment right away.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.