🔧 Highlander - Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

Assumption: “Suspension bushings” means the front lower control arm bushings. On your Highlander, these bushings are typically serviced by replacing the complete lower control arm assembly, because pressing bushings in and out requires a hydraulic press and can damage the arm if done incorrectly.

This repair removes the worn lower control arm and installs a new arm with fresh bushings and ball joint connection. Worn bushings can cause clunks, wandering steering, uneven tire wear, and loose handling.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Highlander with jack stands only; never work under a vehicle supported by a jack alone.
• ⚠️ The front suspension is heavy. Keep hands clear when lowering or moving the control arm.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the ball joint stud or steering knuckle threads.
• ⚠️ Final tightening of control arm bushing bolts must be done at normal ride height to avoid twisting and prematurely damaging the new bushings.
• ⚠️ An alignment is required after this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Rubber mallet
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Qty: 1 per side
• Front lower control arm assembly pair - Qty: 1 pair if replacing both sides
• Lower ball joint cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• Replacement suspension fasteners - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Highlander on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the control arm bolts, sway bar link nut, and ball joint fasteners. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• A ball joint separator is a tool that safely pops the tapered ball joint stud loose from the steering knuckle.
• A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to an exact tightness so parts are secure without being over-tightened.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front wheel lug nuts one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Break lug nuts loose before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Highlander at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable before working underneath.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the front wheel and set it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Current Bolt Positions

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower control arm mounting bolts and washers.
• This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
• Marks are not a substitute for alignment.

Step 5: Disconnect the Sway Bar Link from the Control Arm

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the sway bar link nut from the lower control arm.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with the proper wrench while turning the nut with the 17mm wrench.
• Move the sway bar link aside carefully.

Step 6: Disconnect the Lower Ball Joint

• Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut, if equipped.
• Use a 19mm socket or 22mm socket to loosen and remove the lower ball joint nut, depending on the installed nut size.
• Install the ball joint separator (specialty) between the ball joint and steering knuckle.
• Use the ball joint separator (specialty) to separate the taper joint.
• Do not pull on the axle shaft or brake hose while the knuckle is loose.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 22mm socket, 22mm wrench, and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the rear lower control arm bushing bolt.
• Remove the bolt and keep note of washer orientation.
• If it is tight, apply more penetrating oil and work it slowly back and forth.

Step 8: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 19mm socket or 22mm socket with the breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front lower control arm bushing bolt.
• Use the matching 19mm wrench or 22mm wrench to hold the nut if needed.
• Remove the bolt completely.

Step 9: Remove the Lower Control Arm

• Use a pry bar 18-inch to gently work the lower control arm out of the subframe pockets.
• Use a rubber mallet only if light tapping is needed.
• Do not pry against brake lines, axle boots, or wiring.

Step 10: Install the New Control Arm

• Position the new front lower control arm assembly into the subframe pockets by hand.
• Use the rubber mallet to lightly tap it into place if needed.
• Install the front and rear mounting bolts by hand first.
• Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.
• Hand-start bolts to prevent cross-threading.

Step 11: Reconnect the Lower Ball Joint

• Guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the ball joint nut by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket or 22mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the nut.
• Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs)
• Install a new lower ball joint cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, if equipped.

Step 12: Reconnect the Sway Bar Link

• Insert the sway bar link stud into the lower control arm.
• Use a 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the sway bar link nut.
• Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Preload the Suspension Before Final Tightening

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm near the ball joint.
• Raise the arm until the suspension is near normal ride height.
• This prevents the rubber bushings from being locked in a twisted position.

Step 14: Final-Tighten the Control Arm Bolts

• Use a 22mm socket, 22mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the rear lower control arm bushing bolt.
• Torque to 181 Nm (133 ft-lbs)
• Use a 19mm socket or 22mm socket with the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the front lower control arm bushing bolt.
• Torque to 181 Nm (133 ft-lbs)

Step 15: Reinstall the Wheel

• Install the wheel by hand.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower your Highlander to the ground.
• Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 21mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs)

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side if Needed

• If replacing both sides, repeat the same steps on the opposite front lower control arm.
• Replace suspension arms in pairs when both sides show wear, cracking, or looseness.

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✅ After Repair

• Start your Highlander and turn the steering wheel slowly left and right to confirm there is no binding or unusual noise.
• Drive slowly in a safe area and listen for clunks, pops, or rubbing.
• Recheck the lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs)
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately after replacing lower control arms.
• Avoid high-speed driving until the alignment is completed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 per pair (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 per pair (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $350-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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