Assumption: This procedure is for the front lower control arm bushings on your Rogue. If you mean sway bar bushings or rear trailing arm bushings, the steps and tools are different.

🔧 Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Bushing Replacement

The front lower control arm bushings support the control arm and help control wheel movement. When they wear out, you may get clunks, wandering, uneven tire wear, or vibration. On this vehicle, the most practical repair is usually replacing the complete control arm assembly, because the bushings are pressed in and the arm must be removed and supported correctly.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on a flat surface and chock the rear wheels.
• Lift the Rogue only at approved jack points.
• Support the vehicle with jack stands before going underneath.
• Do not reuse any stretched or damaged suspension hardware.
• Final tightening of suspension bushings must be done at normal ride height to avoid premature bushing failure.
• A wheel alignment is required after this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 22mm socket
• Ratchet
• Socket extensions
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Paint marker
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Control arm bushing press kit (specialty)
• Penetrating oil

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 set
• Front stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
• Use penetrating oil on the control arm fasteners and let it soak.
• If your Rogue has a hill start or brake hold feature, make sure it is off before lifting.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the vehicle

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of the Rogue at the proper jack point.
• Place jack stands under the front support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Remove both front wheels with a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect attached suspension links

• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the stabilizer link nut from the control arm.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key or use a flat-blade screwdriver only if the link design allows it.
• Use a paint marker to mark bolt locations before removal.

Step 3: Separate the control arm from the knuckle

• Use a 19mm socket or 21mm socket to remove the lower ball joint fastener.
• Use a ball joint separator if the joint is stuck.
• Support the knuckle so the brake hose and axle are not strained.

Step 4: Remove the control arm

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove the inner control arm bolts.
• Work the arm out of the subframe with a pry bar if needed.
• Remove the control arm from the vehicle.

Step 5: Replace the bushings or control arm

• If replacing bushings only, use a control arm bushing press kit to press out the old bushings.
• Press the new bushings in squarely. Do not damage the rubber or sleeve.
• If replacing the full control arm assembly, install the new arm in place of the old one.
• Press bushings slowly and evenly.

Step 6: Reinstall the control arm

• Install the inner bolts and the ball joint fastener by hand first.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, and 21mm socket as needed for fasteners.
• Do not fully tighten the inner control arm bolts yet.

Step 7: Final tighten at ride height

• Raise the suspension to normal ride height with the floor jack under the control arm.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten all control arm fasteners to Nissan factory specification for your trim and suspension position.
• Final torque at ride height is critical to prevent bushing twist and early failure.

Step 8: Reassemble and repeat on the other side

• Reinstall the stabilizer link nut and wheel.
• Repeat the same procedure on the opposite side if replacing both bushings or arms.
• Tighten the wheel lug nuts with a 21mm socket.

---

✅ After Repair

• Check that all fasteners are torqued correctly.
• Turn the steering wheel lock to lock and listen for abnormal noises.
• Road test slowly at first and verify the clunking is gone.
• Schedule a wheel alignment as soon as possible.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $320-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.