🔧 Escape - Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

On your Escape, the front suspension bushings are typically serviced as part of the front lower control arm assembly rather than pressed out individually for a beginner DIY repair. Replacing the complete lower control arm restores proper wheel location, reduces clunks, and helps correct uneven tire wear caused by worn rubber bushings.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under your Escape supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Suspension bolts can be very tight. Use steady pressure and keep your body clear if a tool slips.
• ⚠️ Do not damage the ball joint boot. The boot is the rubber cover that keeps grease inside the joint.
• ⚠️ Final tightening of control arm bushing bolts should be done with the suspension at normal ride height to prevent twisting the new bushings.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 250 Nm range
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 15mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 21mm wrench
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Pry bar 24-inch
• Rubber mallet 16 oz
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Needle nose pliers
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Qty: 1 per side
• Front lower control arm assembly pair - Qty: 1 pair recommended
• Lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 1 per side recommended
• Lower control arm mounting bolts - Qty: 2 per side recommended if corroded or damaged
• Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1 after repair

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Escape on a flat, solid surface.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the control arm bolts and ball joint pinch bolt. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• A ball joint separator is a tool that separates the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle without hammering directly on the joint.
• Use a paint marker to mark bolt positions before removal. This helps keep things close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a 3-ton floor jack to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe lift point.
• Place 3-ton jack stands under the proper front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before working.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Control Arm Bolt Positions

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the control arm bolts and washers before removal.
• This does not replace an alignment, but it helps keep the wheel angle close for a short drive.
• Take photos before removing bolts.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Ball Joint Pinch Bolt

• Locate the lower ball joint where the outer end of the control arm attaches to the steering knuckle.
• Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
• If the bolt is stuck, apply penetrating oil and work it slowly back and forth with the 18mm socket.

Step 6: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

• Use a ball joint separator tool to separate the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
• Use a pry bar 24-inch to gently push the control arm downward if needed.
• Do not pry against the rubber ball joint boot if you are reusing the arm temporarily.

Step 7: Support the Control Arm

• Use the floor jack to lightly support the control arm from underneath.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
• This removes pressure from the mounting bolts and makes them easier to remove.

Step 8: Remove the Rear Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the rear lower control arm mounting bolt.
• If the bolt is tight, use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar for extra leverage.
• Keep your hands clear when the bolt breaks loose.

Step 9: Remove the Front Control Arm Mounting Bolt

• Use a 15mm socket and 15mm wrench to remove the front lower control arm mounting bolt.
• Lower the floor jack slightly if the bolt is binding.
• Remove the control arm from the vehicle by hand.

Step 10: Compare the Old and New Control Arm

• Place the old and new control arm assemblies side by side.
• Confirm the bushing locations, ball joint position, and overall shape match.
• Make sure the new ball joint boot is not torn.

Step 11: Install the New Control Arm

• Position the new control arm into the subframe by hand.
• Install the front mounting bolt by hand first.
• Install the rear mounting bolt by hand next.
• Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.

Step 12: Connect the Lower Ball Joint

• Use a pry bar 24-inch to gently guide the control arm into position if needed.
• Insert the ball joint stud fully into the steering knuckle.
• Install the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut by hand.
• Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to tighten the pinch bolt to Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Preload the Suspension to Ride Height

• Use the floor jack under the outer portion of the control arm to raise the suspension until the vehicle just begins to lift slightly from the jack stand.
• This simulates normal ride height before tightening the bushing bolts.
• Do not crawl under the vehicle while adjusting jack height.

Step 14: Tighten the Control Arm Mounting Bolts

• Use a 15mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the front control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the rear control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• Lower the floor jack after both bolts are torqued.

Step 15: Reinstall the Wheel

• Place the wheel back on the hub by hand.
• Install the lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Escape until the tire touches the ground.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Repeat on the Other Side if Replacing as a Pair

• Repeat the same steps on the opposite front lower control arm if replacing both sides.
• Replacing both sides together helps keep handling even.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brakes once before moving the vehicle if you touched the wheel or suspension area.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first and listen for clunks, rubbing, or steering pull.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive using a 19mm socket and torque wrench.
• ✅ Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately after the repair.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking, hard cornering, and highway speeds until the alignment is completed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$950 for both front lower control arms, plus alignment

DIY Cost: $180-$420 for both front lower control arm assemblies, plus alignment

You Save: $250-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours for both sides.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

🔧 Escape - Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

On your Escape, the front suspension bushings most commonly replaced are the front lower control arm bushings. For a beginner DIY repair, the safest and most practical method is replacing the complete lower control arm assembly instead of pressing the rubber bushings in and out.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under your Escape with only a jack holding it up. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses because rust, dirt, and metal flakes can fall while working under the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Suspension bolts can be very tight. Use slow, steady pressure to avoid slipping.
• ⚠️ Do not fully tighten the control arm bushing bolts while the suspension is hanging. Tighten them at normal ride height.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing lower control arms.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 15mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 21mm wrench
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench 250 Nm range
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• 24-inch pry bar
• 16 oz rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil spray
• Paint marker
• Needle nose pliers
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Qty: 1 per side
• Front lower control arm assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2 recommended
• Lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 1 per side recommended
• Lower control arm mounting bolts - Qty: 2 per side recommended if corroded or damaged

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Escape on level ground.
• Set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower control arm bolts and lower ball joint pinch bolt.
• Let the penetrating oil soak for 10-15 minutes.
• A ball joint separator tool separates the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle without damaging the joint.
• A steering knuckle is the metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects the suspension to the steering system.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen before lifting the vehicle.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe lift area.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby, but do not rely on it alone.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel.
• Slide the wheel under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Control Arm Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the positions of the control arm mounting bolts and washers.
• This helps keep the alignment close enough for a careful drive to the alignment shop.
• This does not replace a professional alignment.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Ball Joint Pinch Bolt

• Find the lower ball joint at the outer end of the control arm.
• Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
• If the bolt is stuck, apply more penetrating oil spray and use the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar.

Step 6: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

• Use the ball joint separator tool to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
• Use a 24-inch pry bar to gently push the control arm downward if needed.
• Do not tear the rubber ball joint boot.

Step 7: Support the Control Arm

• Place the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum lightly under the control arm.
• Raise the jack just enough to support the arm.
• Do not lift your Escape off the jack stand.

Step 8: Remove the Rear Control Arm Bolt

• Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the rear control arm bolt.
• Remove the bolt with the 1/2-inch drive ratchet.
• Set the bolt aside only if it is being reused and is not rusty or damaged.

Step 9: Remove the Front Control Arm Bolt

• Use a 15mm socket, 15mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front control arm bolt.
• Remove the bolt with the 1/2-inch drive ratchet.
• Lower the jack slightly if the bolt feels pinched.

Step 10: Remove the Old Control Arm

• Use the 24-inch pry bar to gently work the control arm out of the subframe pockets.
• Use the 16 oz rubber mallet only for light taps if the arm is stuck.
• Do not hammer the aluminum steering knuckle directly.

Step 11: Compare the New Control Arm

• Place the old and new control arms side by side.
• Make sure the bushings, ball joint, and mounting points match.
• Check that the new ball joint boot is not torn.

Step 12: Install the New Control Arm

• Slide the new control arm into the subframe by hand.
• Install the front mounting bolt by hand.
• Install the rear mounting bolt by hand.
• Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.

Step 13: Reconnect the Lower Ball Joint

• Use the 24-inch pry bar to guide the control arm if needed.
• Insert the ball joint stud fully into the steering knuckle.
• Install the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut by hand.
• Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the pinch bolt to Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Set the Suspension at Ride Height

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the outer end of the control arm.
• Raise the control arm until the suspension looks close to normal driving height.
• This prevents the new rubber bushings from being twisted at rest.

Step 15: Torque the Control Arm Bolts

• Use a 15mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the front control arm bolt to Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the rear control arm bolt to Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• Lower the floor jack after both bolts are tight.

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheel

• Put the wheel back onto the hub by hand.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first so they do not cross-thread.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the vehicle slightly.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Escape until the tire touches the ground.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Repeat on the Other Side if Needed

• Repeat these steps on the opposite side if replacing the control arms as a pair.
• Replacing both sides helps keep steering and braking feel even.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Test drive slowly around the block first.
• ✅ Listen for clunks, pops, rubbing, or steering pull.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque with a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench after the first short drive.
• ✅ Get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• ✅ Avoid highway speeds and hard cornering until the alignment is complete.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$950 for both front lower control arms, plus alignment

DIY Cost: $180-$420 for both front lower control arm assemblies, plus alignment

You Save: $250-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours for both sides.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.