How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joints on a 2016 Toyota Prius V
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment advice
How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joints on a 2016 Toyota Prius V
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment advice
🔧 Ball Joints - Front Lower Ball Joint Replacement
On your Prius V, the front lower ball joint connects the steering knuckle to the lower control arm. If it has play, torn grease boot, or clunks over bumps, it should be replaced right away to keep steering and wheel control safe.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Lift the car on level ground and support it securely with jack stands before starting.
- Keep hands clear of the knuckle and control arm while separating the joint.
- Hybrid system warning: the car does not need high-voltage service for this job, but keep the vehicle OFF and the key/fob away from the car.
- Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- If the joint or control arm uses a press-fit design on the side you are servicing, a ball joint press is required.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- 21mm socket
- 22mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Ratchet
- Penetrating oil
- Hammer
- Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front lower ball joint - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Ball joint castle nut - Qty: 2
- Cotter pins - Qty: 2
- Ball joint-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 2 sets
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the car.
- Lift the front of the car and support it with jack stands.
- Remove the front wheel for access.
- Mark parts before loosening them.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the front wheel
- Use a 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and set it aside.
Step 2: Disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle
- Use penetrating oil on the castle nut and stud area.
- Use a 17mm socket or 22mm socket to remove the castle nut, depending on hardware on the vehicle.
- If the stud spins, apply downward pressure on the control arm while loosening.
- Remove the cotter pin with needle-nose pliers before taking off the nut.
Step 3: Separate the ball joint
- Use a ball joint separator tool (specialty) to break the taper loose from the knuckle.
- If needed, tap the knuckle with a hammer to help release the taper.
- Do not hit the threaded stud directly.
Step 4: Remove the ball joint from the control arm
- Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the ball joint mounting bolts from the lower control arm.
- Remove the ball joint from the control arm.
- Inspect the control arm mounting surface for cracks or damage.
Step 5: Install the new ball joint
- Position the new ball joint in the control arm.
- Install the mounting bolts by hand first.
- Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to snug the bolts.
- Torque to factory specification.
Step 6: Reconnect the ball joint to the knuckle
- Align the stud with the steering knuckle.
- Install the new castle nut by hand.
- Use a torque wrench and 17mm socket or 22mm socket to tighten the nut.
- Torque to factory specification.
- Install a new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.
Step 7: Reinstall the wheel
- Put the wheel back on and hand-start the lug nuts.
- Lower the car slightly so the tire touches the ground.
- Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts.
- Torque to factory specification.
✅ After Repair
- Start the car and turn the steering wheel left and right while parked to check for binding.
- Road test at low speed and listen for clunks or clicking.
- Get a front-end alignment checked after ball joint replacement.
- Recheck lug nut torque after driving a short distance.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$700 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $220-$520 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.














