🔧 Impreza - Front Lower Ball Joint Replacement

On your Impreza, the front lower ball joint connects the steering knuckle to the lower control arm. Replacing worn ball joints restores safe steering, braking stability, and prevents dangerous joint separation.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: OEM-style front lower ball joints retained by a knuckle pinch-bolt.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Chock the rear wheels and keep the transmission in 1st gear with the parking brake set.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; rust and metal chips fall when separating joints.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the hose; always support it.
• ⚠️ If you use a hammer near threads, protect them with the old nut.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Pry bar 18"
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Hammer 2 lb
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Bungee cord

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower ball joint - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Ball joint castle nut - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Cotter pin - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, put the shifter in 1st gear, and chock both rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on the ball joint pinch-bolt area and the ball joint stud nut area. Let it soak 10-15 minutes.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front with a floor jack and support the car on jack stands at the pinch welds or front support points.
• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket, then remove the wheel.

Step 2: Create working room at the knuckle

• Turn the steering so the side you’re working on points outward for better access.
• If needed for access, unbolt the brake caliper bracket using a 17mm socket and breaker bar, then hang it with a bungee cord.
• Do not stretch the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the ball joint pinch bolt

• Find the pinch bolt at the bottom of the steering knuckle where it clamps the ball joint.
• Clean threads and exposed areas with a wire brush, then re-apply penetrating oil.
• Remove the pinch bolt using a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench.

Step 4: Separate the ball joint stud from the control arm

• Pull the cotter pin out with needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the castle nut using a 19mm socket (or 19mm wrench, as needed).
• Use a ball joint separator (specialty) to pop the stud out of the control arm. (A separator is a tool that pushes the tapered stud out without damaging parts.)
• If it’s stuck, apply tension with the separator, then strike the control arm boss area with a 2 lb hammer to shock it loose.

Step 5: Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle

• With the pinch bolt removed, spread the knuckle clamp slightly using a pry bar 18".
• Work the ball joint down and out of the knuckle by wiggling the knuckle and pulling the ball joint.
• If needed, tap the ball joint flange area gently with a 2 lb hammer while keeping the knuckle supported.

Step 6: Install the new ball joint into the knuckle

• Clean the knuckle bore with a wire brush and wipe it clean.
• Slide the new ball joint fully into the knuckle by hand (make sure it seats all the way).
• Install the new pinch bolt and nut using a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench.
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Attach the ball joint stud to the control arm

• Guide the ball joint stud into the control arm hole.
• Install the new castle nut using a 19mm socket.
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs), then tighten slightly further as needed to align the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the ends over.

Step 8: Reinstall brakes (if removed)

• Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a 19mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 120 Nm (88 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other side

• Replace the other front ball joint the same way using the same tools and torque specs.
• Doing both keeps steering balanced.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no clunks.
• Road test at low speed first, then re-check for any looseness or noises.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible. Ball joint work can change alignment and tire wear.
• Re-check lug nut torque after ~25 miles of driving.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$220 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$580 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.