How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joints on a 2013 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step lower control arm replacement guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014
How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joints on a 2013 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step lower control arm replacement guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014
🔧 Altima - Front Lower Ball Joint Replacement
The front lower ball joint connects the steering knuckle to the lower control arm and lets the wheel turn and move with the suspension. On your Altima, the front lower ball joint is serviced with the lower control arm assembly, not normally pressed out separately.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Altima with jack stands before working underneath. Never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ The front coil spring is under load. Do not loosen suspension parts unless the vehicle is safely supported.
- ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the CV axle threads. Damaged threads can ruin the axle.
- ⚠️ Replace both left and right lower control arms if both ball joints are worn. This keeps handling even.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 18mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 22mm socket
- 18mm wrench
- 19mm wrench
- 22mm wrench
- Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
- Pry bar set
- Rubber mallet
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flathead screwdriver
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front lower control arm with ball joint - Qty: 1 per side
- Front lower control arms with ball joints - Replace in pairs when both sides are worn - Qty: 2
- New ball joint cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
- New lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: as needed
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Altima on level ground.
- Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
- A ball joint separator is a tool that pushes the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle without damaging nearby parts.
- A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to the correct force so they are not too loose or too tight.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts one turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Break lug nuts loose on the ground.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Altima at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands under the front side pinch welds or approved support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before working.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Inspect the Lower Ball Joint Area
- Use a flathead screwdriver to gently check the rubber boot on the lower ball joint.
- Look for torn rubber, leaking grease, looseness, or rust dust around the joint.
- Use a paint marker to mark the original position of the lower control arm bolts. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to a shop.
Step 5: Remove the Ball Joint Cotter Pin and Nut
- Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the lower ball joint stud.
- A cotter pin is a small bent metal pin that keeps the nut from backing off.
- Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the lower ball joint nut.
- Remove the nut completely if the stud is not spinning. If it spins, apply light upward pressure under the control arm with the floor jack and loosen again.
Step 6: Separate the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle
- Install the ball joint separator tool between the lower control arm ball joint and the steering knuckle.
- Use the correct-size wrench from the separator kit or a 19mm wrench if applicable to tighten the tool until the ball joint stud pops free.
- Use a rubber mallet only for light taps if needed.
- Do not hit the aluminum steering knuckle hard.
- A loud pop is normal.
Step 7: Remove the Rear Lower Control Arm Bolt
- Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the rear lower control arm mounting bolt and nut.
- Support the control arm with one hand as the bolt comes out.
Step 8: Remove the Front Lower Control Arm Bolt
- Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the front lower control arm mounting bolt and nut.
- Use a pry bar gently if the control arm bushing is stuck in the subframe bracket.
- A bushing is a rubber-mounted sleeve that reduces vibration where the arm bolts to the frame.
Step 9: Remove the Lower Control Arm
- Use the pry bar set to carefully work the lower control arm out of the subframe brackets.
- Pull the ball joint stud down and away from the steering knuckle.
- Remove the lower control arm from the vehicle.
Step 10: Install the New Lower Control Arm
- Position the new front lower control arm with ball joint into the subframe brackets by hand.
- Use the rubber mallet for light taps only if needed.
- Install the front and rear control arm bolts by hand first.
- Do not fully tighten the control arm bolts yet.
- Start all bolts before tightening.
Step 11: Connect the Ball Joint to the Steering Knuckle
- Guide the new ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Install the ball joint nut by hand.
- Use a 22mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the ball joint nut to Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
- Install a new cotter pin through the ball joint stud using needle-nose pliers.
- If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until it lines up. Do not loosen the nut to line it up.
Step 12: Preload the Suspension Before Final Tightening
- Place the floor jack under the outer end of the lower control arm.
- Raise the control arm until it is close to normal ride height.
- This prevents twisting the rubber bushings when the car is lowered.
Step 13: Tighten the Lower Control Arm Mounting Bolts
- Use an 18mm socket, 18mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the rear lower control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
- Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the front lower control arm mounting bolt to Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
- Lower and remove the floor jack from under the control arm.
Step 14: Reinstall the Wheel
- Place the wheel back on the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to raise your Altima slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower the vehicle until the tire touches the ground.
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side if Needed
- If replacing both lower control arms, repeat the same steps on the other front side using the same tools.
- Always compare the old and new control arms before installation to confirm they match.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked. Listen for binding, popping, or rubbing.
- ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Check that the steering feels stable and the vehicle does not pull hard.
- ✅ Recheck the wheel lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
- ✅ Schedule a front wheel alignment immediately after replacing the lower control arm or ball joint.
- ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle wanders, do not delay the alignment.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 for one side, $800-$1,400 for both sides including alignment
DIY Cost: $120-$350 for one side, $240-$650 for both sides plus alignment
You Save: $250-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours per side.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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