🔧 GLE - Front Ball Joint Replacement

On your GLE, the front “ball joints” are typically serviced by replacing the control arm(s) that the ball joint is built into (most common: lower control arm). The job is mainly removing the arm, separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle, then reinstalling and tightening at ride height so the bushings don’t tear.

Assumption: Front lower ball joint is integrated into the front lower control arm on your GLE (common on this chassis), so this guide covers lower control arm replacement (ball joint included).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours (both sides)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands on solid lift points; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when separating the ball joint; it can “pop” loose suddenly.
• ⚠️ Do not tighten control-arm bushing bolts with the suspension hanging; tighten at ride height to prevent bushing damage.
• ⚠️ If you remove any brake/ABS wire brackets, reinstall exactly as found to avoid rubbing and sensor faults.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• Socket set 8mm-24mm (1/2" drive)
• E-Torx socket set E10-E20
• Wrench set 13mm-24mm
• Pry bar 18"
• Ball joint separator/puller (specialty)
• Punch set
• Hammer 2 lb
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm (with ball joint) - Qty: 1 (replace in pairs recommended)
• Lower ball joint nut/bolt hardware kit - Qty: 1 (per side)
• Control arm inner mounting bolt/nut kit - Qty: 1 (per side)
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Loosen the front lug bolts slightly while the tires are still on the ground (use a breaker bar).
• Spray penetrating oil on the ball joint fastener(s) and inner control arm bolt(s) and let it soak.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved center/front lift point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper support points and lower onto them.
• Remove the front wheel using your socket set 8mm-24mm.

Step 2: Create access at the control arm/knuckle

• Turn the steering to give yourself room at the ball joint area.
• If any wiring/hoses are clipped to the control arm, unclip them carefully using a pry bar 18" or by hand.
• Take a photo before unclipping.

Step 3: Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle

• Remove the ball joint nut/bolt using the correct size from your socket set 8mm-24mm and wrench set 13mm-24mm.
• Install the ball joint separator/puller (specialty) and tighten until the taper releases from the knuckle.
• Ball joint separator/puller is a tool that pushes the joint stud out without hammering the knuckle.
• If it’s stubborn, tap the knuckle boss lightly with a hammer 2 lb while tension is on the puller (do not hit the stud threads).

Step 4: Remove the lower control arm inner mounting bolt(s)

• Mark the position of any alignment/camber eccentrics (if equipped) using a paint marker.
• Remove the inner mounting bolt(s) using E-Torx socket set E10-E20 (as applicable) and your breaker bar 1/2".
• Support the arm while removing the last fastener so it doesn’t drop suddenly.

Step 5: Install the new control arm (ball joint included)

• Compare the new arm to the old one (bushing layout, ball joint angle) before installing.
• Position the new arm and start the inner mounting bolt(s) by hand using E-Torx socket set E10-E20.
• Insert the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle and install the new nut/bolt using your socket set 8mm-24mm.
• Snug fasteners only for now; do not final-torque the inner bushing bolt(s) yet.

Step 6: Final-torque at ride height

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug bolts using your socket set 8mm-24mm.
• Lower the SUV so the suspension sits at normal ride height (or use a jack under the lower arm to simulate ride height while still on stands).
• Final-torque the inner control arm bushing bolt(s) using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to Mercedes-Benz WIS specification (do not guess).
• Final-torque the ball joint fastener using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to Mercedes-Benz WIS specification (do not guess).
• Final-torque the wheel lug bolts using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to Mercedes-Benz wheel lug specification.

Step 7: Repeat on the other side

• Ball joints/control arms wear similarly side-to-side, so replacing both sides helps keep handling even.

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✅ After Repair

• Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks over bumps and during turns.
• Verify the steering wheel is centered and the SUV tracks straight.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (control arm removal can change toe/camber).
• Recheck for any loosened clips/brackets and look for tire rubbing after a short test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor, depending on how many arms)

DIY Cost: $200-$700 (parts only, depending on arm quality and whether you do both sides)

You Save: $500-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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