🔧 Fusion - Front Ball Joint Replacement

On your Fusion, the front lower ball joint is typically serviced by replacing the entire front lower control arm (the ball joint comes attached). You’ll remove the control arm from the subframe and steering knuckle, then install the new arm and get an alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-5 hours (both sides)

Assumption: replacing the front lower ball joint via control arm assembly.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while separating the ball joint; the knuckle can pop free suddenly.
• ⚠️ Do not pull or over-extend the axle/inner CV joint; support the knuckle so it doesn’t hang.
• ⚠️ Hybrid note: keep the car OFF and keep the key/fob away; avoid touching any orange high-voltage cables.
• ⚠️ If you remove any brake components, don’t press the brake pedal with parts removed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2")
• Metric socket set (8mm-24mm)
• Metric wrench set (8mm-24mm)
• Pry bar (24")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm with ball joint (left) - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm with ball joint (right) - Qty: 1
• Front lower ball joint pinch bolt & nut hardware kit - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm mounting bolt/nut kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the ball joint pinch bolt area and control arm bolts.
• Ball joint separator = tool that pops the joint free.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of the car at the proper jacking point.
• Place jack stands under solid frame/subframe points and lower the car onto them.
• Remove the lug nuts with a lug nut socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Support the steering knuckle

• Place the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm or under the knuckle area to keep it from dropping when the ball joint releases.
• This protects the axle from over-stretching.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it blocks access)

• Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut/control arm using the correct metric socket and metric wrench.
• If the stud spins, hold it with the appropriate metric wrench while turning the nut with a socket.

Step 4: Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt

• Locate the pinch bolt at the bottom of the steering knuckle where it clamps the ball joint stud.
• Remove the nut and bolt using a metric socket and breaker bar.
• Torque on reassembly must be to Ford specification using a torque wrench.

Step 5: Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle

• Install a ball joint separator tool (specialty) between the knuckle and ball joint and tighten it until the joint pops free.
• If needed, tap the knuckle boss lightly with a hammer (2 lb) while tension is on the separator.
• Use a pry bar (24") carefully to guide the control arm down as the stud comes out.
• Keep fingers out of pinch points.

Step 6: Remove the lower control arm mounting bolts

• Mark the position of any alignment cams/washers (if equipped) using a paint marker so you can reinstall similarly.
• Remove the front and rear control arm bolts/nuts using a metric socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the control arm from the subframe.
• Torque on reassembly must be to Ford specification using a torque wrench.

Step 7: Install the new control arm

• Position the new control arm in place.
• Start the subframe mounting bolts by hand using a metric socket, but do not fully tighten yet.
• Guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install a new pinch bolt & nut using a metric socket.
• Torque the pinch bolt to Ford specification with a torque wrench.

Step 8: Tighten control arm bolts at ride height

• This matters because the control arm bushings twist; tightening while hanging can tear bushings early.
• Use the floor jack under the control arm to raise it until the suspension is close to normal ride height.
• Now tighten the control arm mounting bolts using a torque wrench (1/2").
• Torque to Ford specification.

Step 9: Reinstall sway bar end link and wheel

• Reconnect the sway bar end link using the correct metric socket and metric wrench, then torque to Ford specification.
• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench and torque to Ford specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly while parked; listen for clunks.
• Test drive at low speed first, then re-check for any looseness or noise.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible. Replacing a control arm/ball joint can change alignment.
• Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor, both sides)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only, both sides)

You Save: $420-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.