🔧 Control Arms - Replacement

Assumption: Front control arms on your F-150. The control arms locate the front wheel and suspension, so worn bushings or ball joints can cause clunks, uneven tire wear, and loose steering. This job requires supporting the suspension correctly and then getting the front end aligned afterward.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the truck securely on jack stands before removing suspension parts.
• Keep hands clear of the suspension while it is under load.
• Replace control arms in pairs unless only one side was damaged.
• An alignment is required after this repair.
• If the truck has a front wheel speed sensor wire or ABS bracket on the arm, disconnect it carefully before lowering the arm.
• Use caution with the spring-loaded suspension. Do not remove fasteners until the arm is supported.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated for truck weight)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar
• Ratchet
• Socket set, metric and SAE
• Wrench set, metric and SAE
• Torque wrench
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Rubber mallet

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front upper control arm - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Control arm hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Alignment service - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting.
• Raise the front of the truck and support it on jack stands.
• Remove the front wheels.
• Spray rusted fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the wheel and support the suspension

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of the truck.
• Set the frame securely on jack stands.
• Remove the wheel with a lug wrench or socket and ratchet.
• Place the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm or knuckle to support the suspension.

Step 2: Disconnect attached components

• Use a ratchet and the correct socket set to remove any ABS wire brackets, brake hose brackets, or sensor clips attached to the control arm.
• If equipped, remove the sway bar link from the control arm using a wrench set and ratchet.
• Mark bracket locations first.

Step 3: Separate the ball joint

• Use a socket set and wrench set to remove the ball joint nut from the spindle or knuckle.
• Use a ball joint separator (specialty) to break the taper loose.
• Control the knuckle so the axle and brake hose are not strained.

Step 4: Remove the control arm bolts

• Use a breaker bar, ratchet, and socket set to remove the inner pivot bolts.
• Note the position of any alignment cams or washers before removal.
• Remove the control arm from the truck.

Step 5: Install the new control arm

• Position the new arm in the same orientation as the old one.
• Install the inner bolts by hand first using a ratchet and socket set.
• Install the ball joint stud into the knuckle and start the nut by hand.
• Reconnect any brackets or sway bar link hardware.

Step 6: Torque at ride height

• Raise the suspension with the floor jack until it sits at normal ride height.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten all control arm pivot bolts and the ball joint nut to factory specification.
• Final torque for rubber-bushed control arm pivots should be done at ride height to avoid bushing preload.

Step 7: Reinstall the wheel and repeat on the other side

• Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts with a lug wrench.
• Lower the truck and torque the lug nuts to factory specification with a torque wrench.
• Repeat the same steps on the opposite side if replacing both arms.

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✅ After Repair

• Check that all fasteners are torqued and all brackets are reinstalled.
• Start the truck and listen for suspension noise while slowly turning the steering wheel.
• Inspect for rubbing or loose parts around the wheel well.
• Schedule a front-end alignment right away.
• Test drive slowly first, then recheck for noises and steering pull.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.