🔧 Control Arms - Replacement

Assumption: This guide covers the front control arms on your Ram, since that is the usual meaning of “control arms.” The control arms locate the front wheels and affect steering, tire wear, and alignment, so the truck will need a professional alignment after the repair.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the truck on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
• Keep hands clear of the suspension spring area. The front suspension is under load.
• If your truck has a wheel speed sensor wire clipped to the arm, remove it carefully to avoid damage.
• Expect severe alignment changes after removal. Do not drive far until a proper alignment is done.
• No battery disconnect is required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Metric socket set
• Metric wrench set
• Ratchet
• Penetrating oil
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Hammer
• Paint marker
• Trim clip tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front upper control arm - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm - Qty: 2
• Control arm bushing and ball joint hardware kit - Qty: 1 set
• New control arm mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground.
• Set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
• Raise the front end and support it securely on jack stands.
• If the truck has a ride height sensor or wire clipped to the arm, free it before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front wheel

• Use a lug wrench or socket set to remove the front wheel lug nuts.
• Set the wheel aside safely.

Step 2: Soak fasteners

• Use penetrating oil on the control arm mounting bolts and ball joint nut.
• Let it soak before loosening.

Step 3: Support the suspension

• Place a floor jack under the lower control arm or the knuckle to lightly support it.
• This keeps the suspension from dropping suddenly when the arm is removed.

Step 4: Disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle

• Use the correct metric socket and metric wrench to remove the ball joint nut.
• Use a ball joint separator to separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
• If needed, tap the side of the knuckle with a hammer to help release the taper.

Step 5: Remove any sensor or bracket attachments

• Use a trim clip tool to release any brake hose or sensor wire clips attached to the control arm.
• Do not pull on the wire.

Step 6: Remove the control arm bolts

• Use a breaker bar and metric socket set to remove the inner control arm mounting bolts.
• Mark bolt orientation with a paint marker before removal if needed.
• Remove the control arm from the truck.

Step 7: Install the new control arm

• Position the new arm in place by hand.
• Install the inner bolts first, then connect the ball joint stud to the knuckle.
• Thread all fasteners by hand before tightening.

Step 8: Snug the fasteners

• Use a ratchet and metric socket set to snug the inner bolts and ball joint nut.
• Torque to factory specification for your exact arm and fastener location.
• Tighten with the suspension at ride height.

Step 9: Final-torque at ride height

• Raise or support the suspension so the control arm sits near normal ride height.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the control arm pivot bolts to the factory spec.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the ball joint nut to the factory spec.

Step 10: Reassemble and repeat

• Reinstall any sensor wire clips or brackets.
• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
• Repeat the same procedure on the other side if replacing both arms.

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✅ After Repair

• Lower the truck and torque the lug nuts to factory specification with a torque wrench.
• Check that the steering wheel turns freely and there are no rubbing noises.
• Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or pops.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.