🔧 Tacoma - Front Control Arm Replacement

This repair replaces the front control arms on your Tacoma. Control arms hold the wheel in position and allow the suspension to move smoothly; worn bushings or ball joints can cause clunks, uneven tire wear, wandering, or poor alignment.

Assumption: This guide covers the front upper and lower control arms on your RWD Pre Runner.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Tacoma securely with jack stands before working underneath it. Never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ The front coil spring and strut assembly are under tension. Do not loosen the center strut shaft nut.
• ⚠️ Suspension bolts can be very tight. Use steady pressure and keep your body clear if the wrench slips.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacing control arms.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• 21mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 21mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Pickle fork ball joint separator (specialty)
• Hammer 3 lb
• Pry bar 24-inch
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Anti-seize compound
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front upper control arm assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
• Front lower control arm assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
• Front lower ball joint assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
• New cotter pins - Qty: 4
• Front sway bar end link hardware - Qty: 2
• Replacement cam bolt kit - Qty: 2

Tip: Replace left and right control arms in pairs for even handling.

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tacoma on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly with a 21mm socket before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on control arm bolts, ball joint nuts, sway bar end links, and lower shock/strut bolts.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower control arm cam bolts. A cam bolt is an eccentric alignment bolt used to adjust wheel alignment.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack under the front crossmember to lift the front of your Tacoma.
• Place jack stands under the frame rails on both sides.
• Lower the truck gently onto the stands and shake it lightly to confirm it is stable.
• Use a 21mm socket to remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the Skid Plate if Equipped

• Use a 12mm socket to remove the front skid plate bolts.
• Lower the skid plate and set it aside.
• Keep bolts grouped by location.

Step 3: Disconnect the Sway Bar End Link

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the sway bar end link nut from the lower control arm.
• If the stud spins, hold it with the correct wrench while loosening the nut with the 17mm socket.
• Move the sway bar end link away from the lower control arm.

Step 4: Support the Lower Control Arm

• Place the floor jack under the outer end of the lower control arm.
• Raise the jack just enough to support the suspension. Do not lift the truck off the jack stand.
• This keeps the suspension from dropping suddenly when parts are separated.

Step 5: Separate the Outer Tie Rod from the Steering Knuckle

• Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the tie rod nut. A cotter pin is a small bent safety pin that keeps the nut from loosening.
• Use a 19mm socket to remove the tie rod castle nut. A castle nut has slots cut into the top for the cotter pin.
• Use a ball joint separator to separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
• Do not hit the threaded stud directly with a hammer.

Step 6: Separate the Upper Ball Joint

• Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut.
• Use a 19mm socket to loosen the upper ball joint nut, but leave it threaded on a few turns for safety.
• Use a ball joint separator to pop the upper ball joint loose from the steering knuckle.
• Remove the nut fully with the 19mm socket, then move the steering knuckle outward carefully.

Step 7: Remove the Upper Control Arm

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the long upper control arm pivot bolt and nut.
• Slide the bolt out and remove the upper control arm from the frame brackets.
• Install the new upper control arm into the brackets by hand.
• Install the pivot bolt and nut loosely using the 19mm socket and 19mm wrench. Do not final-tighten yet.

Step 8: Disconnect the Lower Shock/Strut Mount

• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the lower shock/strut mounting bolt from the lower control arm.
• Leave the upper strut mount attached.
• Do not loosen the center shaft nut on top of the strut.

Step 9: Separate the Lower Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle

• Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut.
• Use a 24mm or 21mm socket if your replacement hardware uses that size; otherwise use the socket that fits the existing castle nut snugly.
• Loosen the lower ball joint castle nut but leave it on a few turns.
• Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork ball joint separator to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
• Remove the nut fully, then support the steering knuckle so the brake hose is not stretched.

Step 10: Mark and Remove the Lower Control Arm Cam Bolts

• Use a paint marker to clearly mark the cam bolt washer positions on the frame.
• Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and breaker bar to loosen the front and rear lower control arm cam bolt nuts.
• Slide the cam bolts out of the lower control arm.
• Use a pry bar 24-inch to carefully work the lower control arm out of the frame pockets.

Step 11: Install the New Lower Control Arm

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the cam bolt shanks.
• Position the new lower control arm in the frame pockets.
• Install the cam bolts and washers in their original directions by hand.
• Use the paint marker marks to place the cams close to the original alignment.
• Snug the nuts with a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench, but do not final-tighten yet.

Step 12: Reconnect the Lower Ball Joint

• Guide the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the castle nut by hand.
• Use the correct-size socket to tighten the nut, then align the castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Torque to 152 Nm (112 ft-lbs) if using Toyota-style lower ball joint hardware.

Step 13: Reconnect the Upper Ball Joint

• Guide the upper ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the castle nut by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket to tighten the nut.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Torque to 81 Nm (60 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall the Lower Shock/Strut Bolt

• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the lower control arm until the shock/strut bolt holes line up.
• Slide the bolt through by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to tighten the lower shock/strut bolt.
• Torque to 101 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Reconnect the Tie Rod

• Place the outer tie rod stud back into the steering knuckle.
• Install the castle nut by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket to tighten the nut.
• Install a new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.
• Torque to 67 Nm (49 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Reconnect the Sway Bar End Link

• Insert the sway bar end link through the lower control arm.
• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to tighten the end link hardware.
• Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 3 through 16 on the opposite side using the same tools.
• Keep left-side and right-side parts separate if they are side-specific.
• Compare new parts before installation.

Step 18: Final-Tighten Control Arm Pivot Bolts at Ride Height

• Reinstall the wheels using a 21mm socket and snug the lug nuts.
• Use the floor jack to raise your Tacoma enough to remove the jack stands.
• Lower the truck onto the ground so the suspension is at normal ride height.
• Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to tighten the upper control arm pivot bolts.
• Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the lower control arm cam bolt nuts.
• Torque to 206 Nm (152 ft-lbs).
• This ride-height tightening prevents the rubber bushings from twisting and wearing out early.

Step 19: Torque the Wheels

• Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 20: Reinstall the Skid Plate if Equipped

• Lift the skid plate into position by hand.
• Use a 12mm socket to reinstall the skid plate bolts.
• Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check that all cotter pins are installed and bent over securely.
• ✅ Make sure the brake hoses and ABS wires are not twisted, stretched, or rubbing.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or rubbing noises.
• ✅ Schedule a professional front wheel alignment immediately.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the truck pulls, avoid highway driving until aligned.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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