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2020 Subaru Forester
2020 Subaru Forester
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How to Replace Front Brakes 2019-2024 Subaru Forester

How to Replace Front Brakes 2019-2024 Subaru Forester

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2020 Subaru Forester

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, required parts, torque specs, safety tips, and pad bedding procedure

How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2020 Subaru Forester

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, required parts, torque specs, safety tips, and pad bedding procedure

Orion
Orion

🔧 Forester - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then torque everything back to spec. New rotors help prevent pulsation and give the new pads a flat, clean surface to bed in properly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground; support the Forester with jack stands before going under or pulling hard on bolts.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
  • ⚠️ Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust and cleaner are irritants—wear gloves and safety glasses.
  • ⚠️ Keep grease and oil off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
  • Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
  • Caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Flat trim/pry tool
  • Bungee cord
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
  • Brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Crack the front lug nuts loose before lifting (about 1/2 turn) using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; make sure it’s not already at “MAX.” Fluid will rise when you compress the caliper pistons.
  • Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (turn left to work on the right side, and vice-versa).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front

  • Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the approved front center jacking point.
  • Set the Forester onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front pinch welds/subframe points.
  • Remove the front wheels using a 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (do not disconnect the hose)

  • Locate the caliper slide pin bolts (the two smaller bolts on the back of the caliper).
  • Remove the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the strut spring using a bungee cord.
  • Never let the caliper dangle by the hose.

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware

  • Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flat trim/pry tool if they’re stuck.
  • Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket.
  • Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the pad ears slide) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • The caliper bracket is the metal carrier the pads sit in.
  • Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar.
  • Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it’s stuck from rust:
  • Tap around the rotor “hat” area (not the thin braking surface) while pulling, using controlled force with the breaker bar as leverage and your hands.
  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the new rotor sits perfectly flat.
  • A clean hub helps prevent brake pulsation.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

  • Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and shop towels to remove packing oil.
  • Install the rotor onto the hub.
  • Thread one lug nut on by hand to hold the rotor flush while you work.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Position the bracket over the rotor and start the bolts by hand.
  • Tighten using a 17mm socket and torque wrench (10-200 Nm range) (a torque wrench tightens to an exact force).
  • Torque to 114 Nm (84 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

  • Install the new hardware clips into the bracket.
  • Apply a thin film of brake caliper slide pin grease to the pad ears where they touch the clips (avoid the pad friction material).
  • Slide the new pads into place.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

  • Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood.
  • Use a caliper piston compression tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • If fluid approaches the “MAX” line, remove a little with a clean towel (do not spill on paint).

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

  • Place the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench (10-200 Nm range).
  • Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Repeat on the other front wheel

  • Perform Steps 2–10 on the other side. Use the same 14mm socket and 17mm socket sizes and the same torque specs.
  • Do one side at a time to compare.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Lower the Forester off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench (10-200 Nm range).
  • Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
  • Check the brake fluid level and top off with brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) if needed.
  • Test at low speed first. Make sure braking is smooth and straight, with no warning lights.
  • Pad bedding (recommended): make 6–10 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph, with 30 seconds between stops; then drive 5–10 minutes to cool.
  • Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a 19mm socket and torque wrench (10-200 Nm range).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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