🔧 BRZ - Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

You’ll be removing the front wheels, taking off the front brake calipers, replacing the pads and rotors, then reassembling everything with the correct torque. New pads and rotors restore braking power, reduce vibration, and prevent uneven wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a flat, solid surface and support the BRZ with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧤 Brakes create dust—wear a mask and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
• 🔥 Brakes can be very hot; let everything cool before touching.
• 🧪 Brake fluid damages paint; cover fenders and wipe spills immediately.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
• 🧵 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• 19mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8")
• C-clamp (6")
• Brake piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Micrometer or vernier caliper (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (anti-squeal) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir; as you compress pistons the level can rise. If it’s near “MAX,” remove a little.
• 📦 Lay out new pads, rotors, and hardware so you don’t mix sides.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the front

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen (do not remove) the front lug nuts.
• Lift the front using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give the car a firm shake test.
• Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket and take off both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the caliper from the bracket

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room to work.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet (3/8") to remove the two caliper slide bolts.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the pads/rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so the brake hose is not stretched.

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; if stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the stainless pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar (1/2") to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside where it won’t get dirty.
• On reassembly: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the old rotor

• If the rotor is stuck from rust, tap around the rotor “hat” with a rubber mallet until it breaks loose.
• Remove the rotor from the hub.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner spray. A clean hub prevents brake vibration.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove shipping oil.
• Place the rotor on the hub.
• To hold it in place while you work, hand-thread one lug nut backward using the 19mm socket (just snug by hand).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware

• Reinstall the bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten using the 17mm socket and then use the torque wrench: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Install the new pad clips/hardware into the bracket.
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) where the pad ears touch the clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir again so it doesn’t overflow.
• Use a C-clamp (6") or brake piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• A piston compressor tool is a device that presses the piston straight back evenly.
• Go slowly; if it won’t compress smoothly, stop and inspect for binding.

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket.
• Apply a small amount of brake lubricant (anti-squeal) to the pad backing plates where they contact the caliper (keep lube off pad friction material and rotor).
• Lower the caliper over the new pads and align the slide bolt holes.
• Install the slide bolts using the 14mm socket.
• Use the torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 2–9 on the opposite front wheel.
• Use the same 14mm socket and 17mm socket torque values on both sides.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 19mm socket: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Pump the brake pedal before driving

• With the engine off, press the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• This seats the caliper pistons against the new pads.
• Check brake fluid level and top off if needed using brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Check for leaks around both front calipers and confirm all bolts are tight.
• 🛣️ Do a cautious test drive and verify the car stops straight with no grinding.
• 🧼 Bedding-in (recommended): perform 6–10 medium stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, allowing a little cool-down between stops; avoid sitting stopped with hot brakes.
• 🔍 Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 50–100 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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