🔧 Accent - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be replacing the front brake pads and both front rotors, then reassembling and torquing everything correctly. This restores braking power, prevents vibration/pulsation, and protects the new pads from wearing unevenly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Accent with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—wear a dust mask and use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the brake caliper hang by the hose—support it with a bungee cord.
• ⚠️ Keep grease and brake fluid off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• C-clamp (6")
• Flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop towels
• Bungee cord
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Medium-strength threadlocker (blue) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Don’t remove the cap yet, but be ready to check the level during piston compression.
• Tip: Take a photo of each side before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: Your Accent has the common front single-piston floating calipers; steps match OEM-style layout.

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the front

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands and gently shake the car to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and take both front wheels off.

Step 3: Check brake fluid level before compressing the piston

• Open the brake fluid reservoir and check the level. If it’s near “MAX,” remove a little with a clean towel (do not spill on paint).
• A C-clamp is a screw clamp used to press the caliper piston back in.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (do not disconnect the hose)

• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Hang the caliper with a bungee cord so the hose is not stretched.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Remove the brake pads from the bracket by hand.
• Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Remove the rotor

• If equipped with a rotor retaining screw, remove it using a Phillips screwdriver.
• Pull the rotor straight off. If stuck, tap the rotor hat area (not the studs) while pulling.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner so the new rotor sits flat.
• Tip: A dirty hub can cause brake pulsation.

Step 8: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and shop towels (removes protective oil).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• If it uses a retaining screw, reinstall it using a Phillips screwdriver (snug, not over-tight).

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware

• Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker (blue) to the bracket bolt threads.
• Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2" drive).
• Install the new abutment clips from the hardware kit.
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease where the pad ears contact the clips (avoid pad friction material).

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston, then use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.

Step 11: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a light coat of brake caliper grease to the slide pins if they are dry (pull each pin out, wipe, grease lightly, reinstall).
• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 25-35 Nm (18-26 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (3/8" drive).

Step 12: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 4 through 11 on the other side.
• Tip: Do one side at a time to compare.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2" drive).
• Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm. Do a slow test stop in your driveway first.
• Pad bedding (break-in): Make 6-10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, allowing some cooling between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
• Recheck for leaks, unusual noises, or pulling.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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