🔧 TLX - Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, take off the front calipers and brackets, replace the rotors, then install new brake pads. This restores braking power and fixes rotor issues like vibration, grooves, or pulsing in the pedal.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brakes may be hot; let everything cool before touching.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Watch the brake fluid level when compressing pistons; don’t overflow the reservoir.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Phillips #3 screwdriver
• Hand impact driver (specialty)
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Caliper hook
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Leave the cap on, but be ready to check the level often.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Finish removing the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Remove the brake caliper (and support it)

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room at the side you’re working on.
• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension using a caliper hook.
• Don’t twist or stretch the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside where it won’t get dirty.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them using a Phillips #3 screwdriver.
• If they are stuck, use a hand impact driver (specialty) with the Phillips #3 screwdriver bit.
• Pull the rotor off. If it’s stuck, tap around the hat (center area) with a rubber mallet until it loosens.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
• Wipe dry with shop towels. A clean, flat hub helps prevent brake pulsation.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten using a 17mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new stainless hardware clips into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” contact the clips.
• Slide the new pads into place.
• Keep grease off pad friction surfaces.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Remove a little brake fluid from the reservoir if it’s near the MAX line (use shop towels to protect paint).
• Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston fully in.
• Check the brake fluid level as you compress; don’t let it overflow.
• Slow pressure helps protect seals.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Set the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the slide bolts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Final-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 1–11 for the other front wheel.
• Always replace pads and rotors in pairs.

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Check for leaks and make sure nothing rubs while the wheels spin freely.
• Bed-in the pads: make 8-10 medium stops from about 40 mph down to 10 mph, with short cool-down driving between stops.
• Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles when possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.