🔧 Accord - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

On your Accord, the front brake pads clamp the rotor to slow the car down. Replacing pads and rotors together restores smooth stopping, prevents vibration, and protects the new pads from wearing unevenly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on the jack alone.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
• 🛑 Brake fluid damages paint; wipe spills immediately.
• 🛑 Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2")
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Short extension (3/8")
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Bungee cord
• Phillips #3 screwdriver
• Hand impact driver (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner
• High-temp silicone brake grease
• Anti-seize compound
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap loosely (this helps the piston compress). Put a shop towel around the reservoir to catch any overflow.
• Assumption: Your rotors may have retaining screws; steps include both cases.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the front

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar (1/2") to loosen the front lug nuts about 1/2 turn (don’t remove yet).
• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Remove the brake caliper (the clamp)

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room to work on that side.
• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet (3/8") to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the strut spring using a bungee cord.
• Tip: Never let the caliper dangle.

Step 3: Remove pads and inspect

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Use shop towels and brake cleaner to clean loose dust from the bracket area.
• Check the rubber boots on the slide pins for tears.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar (1/2") to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has retaining screws, use a Phillips #3 screwdriver with a hand impact driver (specialty) to loosen them.
• Remove the rotor from the hub. If it’s stuck, wiggle and pull while keeping your fingers clear of pinch points.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and a quick spray of brake cleaner.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (not the wheel studs).

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe with shop towels (this removes protective oil).
• Place the new rotor onto the hub.
• If retaining screws are used, install them with a Phillips #3 screwdriver and snug them (they’re only to hold the rotor during assembly).

Step 7: Prep the bracket and install new hardware

• Remove the old pad clips from the bracket by hand.
• Clean the clip “tracks” on the bracket using a wire brush and brake cleaner.
• Install the new clips from the front pad hardware kit.
• Apply a light coat of high-temp silicone brake grease where the pad ears slide on the clips.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten with a 17mm socket and then use a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• A piston compressor is a clamp tool that pushes the piston in evenly so the new thicker pads fit.
• Watch the brake fluid level at the reservoir and remove excess if it gets too high using shop towels to catch any spill.

Step 10: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• If your pad set includes wear indicators, match their position side-to-side as provided in the kit.
• Tip: Don’t touch pad friction surfaces.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
• Finish with a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car to the ground with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench (1/2"): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–12 on the other side.
• Tip: Do one side at a time.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal feels normal and doesn’t sink.
• Test at low speed first. Verify no pulling, grinding, or pulsation.
• Bed-in the pads: make 8–10 moderate stops from ~40 mph to ~10 mph, letting brakes cool slightly between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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