🔧 Escape - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, take the brake caliper off, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. New rotors help prevent vibration and give your new pads a clean, flat surface to bed-in against.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Escape on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—wear dust mask and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Keep the caliper supported—do not let it hang by the brake hose.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Micrometer or vernier caliper (specialty)
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Crack the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Turn the steering wheel to give more access (turn left to work on the right side, and vice versa).
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll monitor fluid level as you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack to lift at the front jack point, then set the Escape onto jack stands.
• Remove the front wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the brake caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads)

• Turn the steering for better access, then locate the two caliper guide/slide bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Remove the caliper guide/slide bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the strut spring using a brake caliper hanger hook (specialty).
• Don’t twist or stretch the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if needed.
• Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the pad “lands” (where the clips sit) with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket (the metal frame the pads slide in)

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 15mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove and replace the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it’s stuck, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the new rotor sits flat.
• Clean the new rotor braking surfaces with brake cleaner spray and shop towels (removes packing oil).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 6: Reinstall the caliper bracket and torque it

• Reinstall the bracket and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten with a 15mm socket, then Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs) using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new abutment clips from the hardware kit.
• Apply a thin film of brake grease where the pad ears touch the clips (not on the pad friction material).
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper

• Check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood before compressing.
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly push the caliper piston back in until it bottoms out.
• Go slow to avoid overflowing the reservoir.
• Reinstall the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper guide/slide bolts using a 13mm socket.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a 3/8" drive torque wrench.

Step 9: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 2–8 on the other side.
• Do one side at a time so you can reference the assembled side if you get stuck.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the Escape and torque lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal firmly 10–15 times until it feels normal (this seats the pistons against the pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 4 only if needed.
• Test at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in procedure (safe road): make 6–10 medium stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, with light driving between stops to cool.
• Re-torque lug nuts after 50–100 miles using a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.