🔧 F-350 Super Duty - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then torque everything back to spec. New pads on worn or heat-spotted rotors can cause noise, vibration, and poor stopping, so doing pads + rotors together is the right move.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-4.0 hours

Assumption: Your A4—

Assumption (important): Ford used a few front brake hardware/bolt-size variations on Super Duty; torque specs below are correct for common 2016 F-350 setups, but verify your bolt head sizes as you go.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands on the frame—never rely on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks; your truck is heavy and can roll.
• 🛑 Wear safety glasses; brake dust and rust scale fall straight down.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• 🛑 Watch the brake fluid level when compressing pistons; siphon excess if it nears overflow.
• 🛑 Let brakes cool before starting; rotors can be extremely hot.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 4-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 4-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket (caliper bracket bolt check)
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (up to 250 ft-lbs)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (up to 50 ft-lbs)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Large flathead screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front pad hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
• Crack the front lug nuts loose before lifting (about 1/2 turn) using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; keep it below the “MAX” line.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 4-ton minimum) at the approved front jacking point.
• Set the truck down onto jack stands (rated 4-ton minimum) under the frame.
• Give the truck a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Remove the wheels and slide them under the frame as an extra safety backup.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (do not hang it by the hose)

• Turn the steering to give yourself room (left side: turn wheel right; right side: turn wheel left).
• Remove the caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet (bolt size can vary; use the socket that fits snug).
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper from the coil spring or frame with a bungee cord.
• Tip: No strain on the brake hose.
• Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) when reinstalling caliper slide bolts.

Step 4: Remove the old brake pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a large flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad “clips” (abutment clips) from the bracket.
• Clean the pad contact areas on the bracket with brake parts cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket (some setups use a different size; use what fits snug) and a 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Torque to 221 Nm (163 ft-lbs) when reinstalling caliper bracket bolts.

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• If the rotor is stuck to the hub, spray the hub center area with brake parts cleaner spray and let it soak.
• Hit the rotor “hat” area with a rubber mallet to break it free (hit between wheel studs, not on the studs).
• Remove the rotor.

Step 7: Clean the hub face (prevents brake vibration)

• Clean rust off the hub face using a wire brush and wipe with shop towels.
• Spray the hub face lightly with brake parts cleaner spray and wipe dry.
• Tip: A clean hub helps prevent pedal pulsation.

Step 8: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner spray and shop towels (removes packing oil).
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• If needed, hold the rotor in place by hand while you start assembling the bracket.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new pad hardware

• Reinstall the bracket using the correct socket (commonly 18mm socket) and a 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 221 Nm (163 ft-lbs).
• Install new abutment clips from the hardware kit by hand (they snap into the bracket).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” slide on the clips.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly compress the piston until it seats fully.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir; remove a little fluid if it rises too high.
• Tip: Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 11: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
• Slide the caliper over the new pads.
• Install caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Snug lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Final-torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 224 Nm (165 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Do the same procedure on the other side. Brakes should always be replaced in pairs.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, slowly pump the brake pedal 8–12 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level; top off with DOT 3 only if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm (power assist will change pedal feel).
• Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph to 5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles if possible.
• Re-check lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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