🔧 Traverse - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, take off the brake caliper and bracket, replace the rotor, then install new pads and reassemble. This restores braking power and fixes pulsation/shaking from warped rotors or worn pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Stock front brakes (no aftermarket big-brake kit).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Traverse on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brakes may be hot; let components cool before touching.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it damages paint quickly.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for front brake service on your Traverse.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 22mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs range)
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Socket extension (3" and 6")
• Large C-clamp (6")
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Flathead screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake pad lubricant (high-temp) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; as you compress pistons, the level may rise.
• If the brake fluid reservoir is very full, remove a small amount with a clean towel to prevent overflow.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Traverse at the approved front jacking point.
• Set it down on jack stands and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the wheels using a 22mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Locate the caliper, pads, and bracket

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room (left to work on right side, and vice versa).
• Identify the caliper (the clamp), the brake pads (friction pieces), and the caliper bracket (the mount behind the caliper).

Step 3: Remove the caliper bolts and hang the caliper

• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 15mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Hang the caliper using a brake caliper hanger hook. (This hook supports the caliper so the brake hose doesn’t get stretched.)

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
• Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket. Use a flathead screwdriver if needed.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two bracket-to-knuckle bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• Slide the rotor off the hub. If it’s stuck from rust, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits perfectly flat.
• Spray the hub and surrounding area with brake parts cleaner and wipe with shop towels.
• Flat hub surface helps prevent pulsation.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner to remove protective oil.
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
• To keep it from wobbling while you work, install one lug nut backward by hand, then snug it using a 22mm socket (do not fully tighten).

Step 8: Service the caliper bracket and slide pins

• Remove the slide pins from the bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off the pins with shop towels.
• Apply fresh brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) to the smooth pin surfaces.
• Reinstall the pins and confirm they move smoothly.

Step 9: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install new hardware/abutment clips onto the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of brake pad lubricant (high-temp) where the pad “ears” contact the clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the new rotor.
• Install the two bracket bolts by hand first, then tighten using an 18mm socket and ratchet.
• Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use a large C-clamp (6") to slowly compress the piston fully into the caliper. (A C-clamp is a screw clamp that pushes the piston back in.)
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads and bracket.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 15mm socket and ratchet.
• Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–12 on the other side.
• Replace pads and rotors on both sides to keep braking even.

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm.
• Test at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (recommended): do 6–10 medium stops from 30–40 mph with cool-down time between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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