How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2007 Nissan Altima (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth brake job for 2007
How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2007 Nissan Altima (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth brake job for 2007
🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement
You’ll remove the front wheels, take off the brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors, then install new pads and reassemble everything. This restores braking performance and fixes common issues like vibration (warped rotors) or squealing/grinding (worn pads).
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
- ⚠️ Brakes may contain dust—avoid breathing it; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- ⚠️ Keep ignition OFF and key away while working near moving parts.
- ⚠️ Brake parts can be hot—let everything cool before starting.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or 21mm socket
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- 14mm socket
- 19mm socket
- Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
- C-clamp or brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner
- Shop towels
- Gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Front brake hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Do not remove the cap yet—just note the fluid level.
- Turn the car OFF and keep the key away from the vehicle while you work.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the front wheel lug nuts
- Use a lug wrench or 21mm socket to loosen (do not remove) the lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
Step 2: Lift and support the front end
- Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jacking point.
- Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front support points.
- Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.
Step 3: Remove the front wheels
- Use a lug wrench or 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and set them aside.
Step 4: Remove the brake caliper (do not let it hang)
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room to work on one side at a time.
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the rotor.
- Hang the caliper from the strut spring using a bungee cord.
- Never hang it by the hose.
Step 5: Remove the old brake pads and hardware
- Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand.
- Use a flathead screwdriver to carefully remove the pad retaining clips (hardware) if they’re stuck.
Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar (1/2") to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
- Remove the bracket and set it aside.
- When reinstalling later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Step 7: Remove the rotor
- Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
- If it’s stuck, spray the hub/rotor center with brake cleaner, then tap the rotor “hat” area with a firm hand while pulling (avoid hitting wheel studs).
- Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face so the new rotor sits flat.
Step 8: Install the new rotor
- Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner and shop towels (removes protective oil).
- Place the rotor on the hub and hold it in place with one lug nut hand-tight (optional) so it doesn’t wobble.
Step 9: Prep the caliper bracket and slide pins
- Install the new pad hardware clips onto the bracket by hand.
- Pull each slide pin out (one at a time) and wipe it clean with shop towels.
- Apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone) to the slide pin, then reinstall it.
- Grease the pin, not the threads.
Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Position the bracket over the rotor.
- Install the bracket bolts by hand, then tighten with a 19mm socket.
- Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Step 11: Compress the caliper piston
- Check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood first—compressing the piston raises fluid level.
- Use a C-clamp or brake caliper piston compressor (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- If the reservoir looks like it may overflow, remove a little fluid with a clean towel (do not spill on paint).
- Slow and steady prevents seal damage.
Step 12: Install the new pads
- Apply a light film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” touch the hardware clips.
- Slide the new pads into the bracket until they sit square and move smoothly.
Step 13: Reinstall the caliper
- Lower the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
- Install the slide pin bolts by hand first, then tighten with a 14mm socket.
- Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs)
Step 14: Repeat on the other front side
- Repeat Steps 4–13 on the other front wheel.
- Use the same tools and the same torque specs.
Step 15: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Install the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)
✅ After Repair
- With the car still in Park, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
- Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off with DOT 3 only if needed.
- Road test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
- Pad break-in: make 6–10 medium stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, with cool-down driving between stops.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















