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2014 Toyota Tundra
2007 - 2018 Toyota Tundra
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2014 Toyota Tundra (Front Brake Pads and Rotors) 112,000 miles

2014 Toyota Tundra (Front Brake Pads and Rotors) 112,000 miles

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2007-2018 Toyota Tundra (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips to restore braking

How to Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2007-2018 Toyota Tundra (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips to restore braking for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

Orion
Orion

đź”§ Tundra - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, take off the brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors, then install new brake pads and hardware. This restores stopping power and fixes common issues like pulsation (warped rotors) or grinding (worn pads).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands before working underneath or removing wheels.
  • 🧤 Brakes create dust—wear safety glasses and gloves, and use brake cleaner (don’t blow dust with air).
  • 🔥 Rotors and calipers can be very hot if you just drove—let them cool first.
  • đź§· Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hook/strap.
  • đź§Ş Brake fluid damages paint—wipe spills immediately.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • Ratchet (1/2" drive)
  • Ratchet (3/8" drive)
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • C-clamp (6" minimum) or brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
  • Bungee cord or caliper hook
  • M8 x 1.25 bolts (2-pack, 25-40mm long)
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop rags
  • Catch pan
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front brake hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Crack (loosen) the front lug nuts slightly before lifting using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Open the hood and check the brake fluid level. When you compress pistons, the level can rise—remove a little fluid with a clean rag if the reservoir is near “MAX”.
  • A torque wrench tightens bolts to a specific force.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Tundra at the proper front jacking point.
  • Set the frame onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Give the truck a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

  • Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet (1/2" drive).
  • Remove both front wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Remove the brake caliper (do not disconnect the hose)

  • Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room at the side you’re working on.
  • Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 17mm socket and ratchet (1/2" drive).
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
  • Support the caliper with a bungee cord or caliper hook so the hose isn’t stressed.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
  • Remove the pad hardware/clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
  • Spray the bracket and pad areas with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop rags.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Set the bracket aside.

Step 6: Remove the rotor

  • Pull the rotor straight off. If it’s stuck from rust, thread the M8 x 1.25 bolts (2-pack, 25-40mm long) into the rotor’s “push” holes and tighten evenly to press the rotor off the hub.
  • If needed, tap the rotor hat gently while turning it (use the breaker bar handle carefully). Keep fingers clear.

Step 7: Clean the hub and install the new rotor

  • Clean rust off the hub face using a wire brush.
  • Spray the hub with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop rags.
  • Clean the new rotor surfaces with brake cleaner spray to remove packing oil.
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.
  • A clean hub helps prevent pedal pulsation.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Reinstall the bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and ratchet (1/2" drive).
  • Tighten with a 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range): Torque to 167 Nm (123 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Install new hardware and pads

  • Install new pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket.
  • Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) where the pad ears slide on the clips (not on the pad friction material).
  • Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 10: Compress the caliper pistons

  • Place an old brake pad against the pistons to spread the force.
  • Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) or brake caliper piston compressor (specialty) to slowly push the pistons back until the caliper fits over the new pads.
  • Pump the clamp slowly to avoid spills.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

  • Set the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the slide pin bolts using a 17mm socket and ratchet (1/2" drive).
  • Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range): Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other front wheel

  • Repeat Steps 3–11 on the other side.
  • Replace rotors and pads in pairs so braking stays even.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the truck off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket.
  • Final tighten with a 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range): Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).

âś… After Repair

  • Press the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm before you drive.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with brake fluid (DOT 3) if needed.
  • Look around both calipers for any leaks and confirm nothing is rubbing.
  • Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 medium stops from 30–40 mph, then drive a few minutes to cool (avoid hard stops for the first 150–200 miles).

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$480 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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