🔧 Accord - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, take off the calipers and brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the new brakes. New rotors and pads restore stopping power and prevent vibration or noise caused by worn parts.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Accord with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brakes may be hot; let everything cool before touching rotors/calipers.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Phillips #3 screwdriver
• Hand impact driver (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• C-clamp (6-inch) or disc brake piston tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level. If the reservoir is very full, remove a small amount with a clean rag to prevent overflow when you compress the pistons.
• Take a photo of each side before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Lift the front using a floor jack at the front center jack point.
• Set the car onto jack stands at the pinch welds/subframe points.
• Remove both front wheels with a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (but don’t let it hang)

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (left for right side, right for left side).
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the spring/strut. Never hang it by the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flat blade screwdriver.
• Remove the stainless pad clips from the bracket. Use a flat blade screwdriver if needed.
• Spray the bracket areas with brake parts cleaner and scrub with a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside on a rag.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If your rotors have retaining screws, remove them using a Phillips #3 screwdriver.
• If the screws are stuck, use a hand impact driver (specialty) and strike it with a hammer (16 oz) to break them loose. (A hand impact driver turns when you hit it.)
• Pull the rotor off. If seized to the hub, tap the rotor hat firmly with a hammer (16 oz) while rotating the rotor.
• Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush, then spray with brake parts cleaner and wipe with shop rags.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor braking surfaces with brake parts cleaner and shop rags (this removes protective oil).
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (not the rotor braking surface).
• Install the rotor onto the hub. If you have retaining screws, reinstall them using a Phillips #3 screwdriver (snug only).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the new rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Tighten with a 17mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Service slide pins and install new hardware

• Pull the caliper slide pins out (they slide out of the rubber boots by hand).
• Wipe them clean with shop rags, then apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease and reinstall.
• Install the new pad clips/hardware into the bracket (from your hardware kit).
• Only use silicone brake grease on brake parts.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6-inch) or disc brake piston tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Go slow and watch the brake fluid reservoir for overflow.

Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket.
• Apply a light smear of silicone brake grease to pad “ears” where they slide in the clips. Keep grease off the friction material.
• Set the caliper over the pads and line up the slide pin bolt holes.
• Install and tighten the slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Do the same procedure on the other side so braking stays even.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal feels normal (it will drop slightly with booster assist).
• Do a cautious test drive and confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in procedure (recommended): make 8–10 medium stops from ~40 mph down to ~5 mph, driving a bit between stops to cool the brakes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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