🔧 Traverse - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads on your Traverse means removing the front wheels, unbolting the front brake caliper, swapping the pads (and any included hardware), then compressing the caliper piston so everything fits back together. Doing it carefully prevents brake noise, uneven wear, and braking pull.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a flat, solid surface; chock the rear wheels.
• 🛑 Support the SUV with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• 🛑 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Socket set (metric)
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• C-clamp (6")
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Wire brush (small)
• Turkey baster or fluid suction pump
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware/abutment clips (if not included with pads) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🔧 Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and set the parking brake.
• 🔧 Chock both rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• 🔧 Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s near “MAX,” use a turkey baster to remove a little fluid (compressing pistons can raise the level).
• 🔧 Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (left side: turn wheel right; right side: turn wheel left).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the front lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the tire is still on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and secure the front of the SUV

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the proper front jacking point.
• Set it down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake-check for stability.

Step 3: Remove the front wheel

• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 4: Access the caliper and remove the caliper guide/slide pin bolts

• Turn the steering to improve access if needed.
• Use a ratchet (3/8" drive) and the correct metric socket to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (upper and lower).
• Tip: Keep bolts in order—top and bottom.

Step 5: Remove and support the caliper

• Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Use a flathead screwdriver (medium) to gently pry only if needed.
• Hang the caliper using a brake caliper hanger hook (specialty). (A caliper hanger is a hook/strap that supports the caliper so the brake hose isn’t strained.)

Step 6: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out by hand.
• If your new pads include new abutment clips, remove the old clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver (medium).

Step 7: Clean and prep the bracket contact points

• Use brake cleaner to clean the bracket and pad contact areas.
• Use a wire brush (small) to remove rust where the clips sit.
• Install the new clips by hand (or reuse only if your pad kit instructs).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, double-check the brake fluid level under the hood.
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly push the caliper piston back into the caliper. (A C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses the piston in evenly.)
• Go slowly; stop if the piston feels stuck or the fluid reservoir overflows.

Step 9: Install the new pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) to the pad “ears” where they touch the clips (do not get any on pad friction material).
• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• If equipped with a pad wear sensor, make sure it matches the original position.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Set the caliper back over the pads and rotor.
• Reinstall the slide pin bolts using a ratchet (3/8" drive) and the correct metric socket.
• Tighten with a torque wrench (3/8" drive): Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Snug them using a 21mm socket and breaker bar in a star pattern.
• Lower the SUV off the stands with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Final-tighten lug nuts with a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

Step 12: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–11 on the other side.
• Tip: Always replace pads on both sides.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ With the engine off, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotor).
• ✅ Re-check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• ✅ Test at low speed first (5–10 mph), then gradually increase.
• ✅ Pad bed-in (recommended): make 8–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops. Avoid holding the pedal hard while stopped right after bedding.
• ✅ Listen for abnormal grinding and check for pulling; if present, stop and recheck your work.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$490 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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